State Road 79 begins its steep plunge down towards Seneca Lake and Watkins Glen far below
By Norman D. Ford
How To Cycle One Of America's Most Popular Bike Tours in 14 Days
State Road 79 begins its steep plunge down towards
Seneca Lake and Watkins Glen far below
If you're looking for a Do-It-Yourself bike tour in the Northeast--overnighting at affordable motels-- consider cycling New York's Finger Lakes and the Erie Canal.
Gouged by glaciers millenia ago, these long, spindly lakes are webbed by roads that take you pedaling along lakeshores or over rolling hills, past world-class vineyards and picturesque farms, to quaint towns and villages with elm-lined streets bordered by elegant Victorian houses and gardens.
From the high ridges I viewed breathtaking panoramas of the sparkling lakes below. On quiet backroads, I met Amish carriages drawn by high-stepping horses. And near Ovid I saw a multi-bladed plow pulled not by a noisy, polluting tractor but by a team of seven magnificent horses, their reins held by an Amish farmer standing atop the machine.
Then to climax it all, I spent the final two days on a flat, 90-mile ride along the car-free towpath of the Erie Canal, past a series of still-operating locks and 19th-Century towns that line this historic ribbon of water.
Altogether, I stayed at only 5 different motels while cycling the Finger Lakes plus one
more on the Erie Canal: at Auburn, Geneva, Watkins Glen, Penn Yan, and Canandaigua, plus Brockport on the Erie Canal. My basic itinerary takes you biking from one town to the next and you can pedal my route in a single week.
But, I found, some of the most rewarding biking in the Finger Lakes lies in exploring the country AROUND each motel town. Thus at most motel towns, I stayed for one or two extra days. And on each layover day, I explored the surrounding region on an all-day loop ride that brought me back each night to the same motel. This not only saved searching for a fresh motel each night but also allowed me to leave my heavy luggage panniers in the motel while I was out cycling.
Each of the loop rides I made is described in detail in one or more of 3 Finger Lakes guidebooks. They are:
TOURGUIDE: The Finger Lakes Bicyclist's Tour Guide.
30-RIDES: 30 Bicycle Tours of the Finger Lakes Region.
B&H: Biking and Hiking in the Central Finger Lakes Region (free).
In the Trip Log below, I refer to each book by its abbreviation (i.e. TOURGUIDE; 30- RIDES; or B&H) and I give the page number or other reference.
Also absolutely essential is a large-scale, detailed road map of the entire Finger Lakes region. I used MAPtech's Finger Lakes map of 14 counties and 9 cities, showing campgrounds and wineries, and widely available throughout the Finger Lakes for $5. Full details on these publications and where to get them is given later.
With only 6 motels to book at, phoning ahead to reserve a room was a cinch. Nowadays, with thousands of automobile tourists pouring out of the cities on weekends, and with many motel rooms booked on weekdays by business travelers, I recommend reserving a room at least 2 or 3 days in advance of arrival.
Doubtless, there are half a dozen "best" routes for touring the Finger Lakes but I claim my itinerary is one of the best for cyclists staying at affordable motels. Under each motel town, I name the motel at which I stayed together with these abbreviations (M = Motel; RD = Recommended; and BB = Best Buy). Example M. Budget Inn, RD, BB, meaning the Budget Inn is recommended and a best value buy.
I also give the routing for each day's ride. While parts of my ride are level and flat, other sections take you over a series of rolling hills, some quite challenging and steep. Be sure to have a very low climbing gear (22T small chain ring and 32T large cog) so you can spin your way up hills without straining your knees. And since about 80 miles of my tour takes you on unpaved trails, I strongly recommend taking a mountain bike with 26 x 1.5 tires. (Or if you must ride a road bike, fit it with 700 x 32mm tires or larger.) Knobbies or fat tires are not required.
You'll find more practical info at the end of the Trip Log below.
A Day-by-Day Log of my Tour
DAY 1: Auburn to Skaneateles, and around part of Skaneateles and Otisco Lakes back to Auburn, 40 miles. My trip began in early May, 2005, at Auburn, an industrial town of 29,000 at the north end of Owasco Lake. (M. Budget Inn, in center at 61 State St., 315-253- 3296, 2-story, at-door parking on first floor, supermarket near. RD, BB.) Being off-season, I was able to leave my car on their parking lot till I returned from the trip.
It was just a block from the Budget Inn to the East Arterial Road (Routes State 5 and U.S. 20), a 2-4 lane highway also called the "Top-of-the Lakes" road because it connects the towns at the northern ends of the five largest Finger Lakes. Like most NY State roads, it has shoulders 5.5-10 feet wide (while secondary roads tend to have shoulders 4 feet wide, and smaller roads from two feet down to no shoulder at all). However, most roads are shoulderless where they run through towns.
Cycling on the wide shoulder of 5&20, it was a flat, fast ride to the town of Skaneateles (pronounced Skanny-atlas), 7 miles east. A small lakeside town filled with traditional colonial homes, tourist shops and art galleries, Skaneateles lies at the northern tip of Skaneateles Lake. The 40-mile bike ride around this lake is considered moderately difficult and there's no accommodation en route. Thus I chose instead to pedal a shorter 25-mile loop from and back to Skaneateles via parts of both Skaneateles and Otisco Lakes. It's described in detail on page 19 of 30-RIDES.
Over rolling hills with gentle grades, I cycled first along the shore of Skaneateles Lake on SR41, then headed east on SR 174 across a ridge for a short ride beside Otisco Lake, and I returned to Skaneateles via SR 174 and 175 and the New Seneca Turnpike, all easily traced on your Maptech map. 30-RIDES also describes a shorter loop you can add as you ride back to Auburn on 5&20.
Yes, there was traffic on 5&20, including some larger trucks and 18-wheelers, but cycling on the extreme right of the 10-foot wide shoulders was like having your own private bike path. All in all, today's ride was a valuable introduction to Finger Lakes cycling.
DAY 2: Auburn--all-day loop ride around Owasco Lake and back to Auburn, 38 miles. One of the smaller Finger Lakes, Owasco lies immediately south of Auburn. And as with all these lakes, it's hillier in the South and flatter in the North. But all today's roads were paved and climbs were gradual. Local cyclists consider this an easy-to-moderate ride. For 3/4ths of the way I found an adequate shoulder or very little traffic. But the first 7 miles south of Auburn on SR38 lacked an adequate shoulder. However, most of the traffic consisted of cars and drivers seemed unusually careful.
Both heading south on the lake's west side and returning north up the east side yielded a variety of views of this deep, blue lake ringed by brown wooded hills. And at the lake's south end the small town of Moravia has a cafe, convenience store and supermarket. A mile south of Moravia on SR38 is Fillmore Glen State Park.
(Routing: MAPtech's map has a street map of Auburn. From Budget Inn, ride 2 blocks south to Dill St. Turn left and fork left onto Osborne St. Pedal south on this quiet residential street until it becomes Pulsifer Street. At far end, turn right on to Fleming St., then left on to Lake Avenue (SR38). Stay on SR38 as it heads south around a traffic circle and you're all set for Moravia.
For the first 5 miles, SR38 runs past cottages close to the shore of Owasco Lake. Then it begins a gradual climb up to Casowasco, high above the lake. At Casowasco, SR38 becomes a modern highway with ten foot wide shoulders. It drops back down to the lake's southern tip, then passes flat wetlands into Moravia.
Be sure to leave Moravia by heading north up Main St. Soon, Main Street becomes Rockefeller Road, a pleasant 2-lane county road. Passing homes and farms, Rockefeller climbs above Owasco Lake with impressive panoramas spread out below. For best views, fork left on to Sam Adams Loop. Soon the Loop rejoins Rockefeller and you emerge on to SR38A. From here, it's a 7 mile ride back to Auburn on ten foot wide shoulders.
As you pass Emerson Park on your left, take a short jog left on Road 437 and you'll be back at the same traffic circle you passed on the way out. This ride is described in TOURGUIDE, P. 96; 30-RIDES, P. 192: and B&H P. 4.
DAY 3: Auburn--all day loop ride to Union Springs, Aurora, King Ferry and back to Auburn, 50 miles. This ride, described in B&H Page 5, focuses on NY Scenic Byway SR90 that runs for miles along the east shore of Lake Cayuga, largest of the Finger Lakes. It's all on fairly level state and secondary roads with a few rolling hills, some with steep grades.
From the Budget Inn, I cycled 3 blocks south to Geneseee Street then headed southwest on SR 326 for ten miles to Union Springs. Here I turned south on SR90 and cycled close to Cayuga Lake into the historic town of Aurora, famous as the home of Wells College for women. Together with the Aurora Inn, open for lunch, the college is surrounded by acres of green lawn. A mile or so south are Long Point State Park and the Long Point Winery.
SR90 now turns inland to King Ferry, Here I swung north onto SR34B, a rural route that led past hilltop farms and hamlets. Next, I forked left on to Ridge Road and biked past Amish farms to join SR326. It was then just 7 miles back into Auburn by the same route I had used to leave by in the morning.
Cycling through downtown Geneva, I passed these
colorful federal-era town houses
DAY 4: Auburn to Geneva, 35 miles. Neither very scenic nor exciting, much of today's account is about following the most bike-friendly route between the two towns. From Auburn's Budget Inn, I rode south one block to the Arterial West Highway (Route 5&20 westbound) and cycled on its wide shoulder out through the sprawling city suburbs to a flat countryside dotted with homes and farms.
Approaching Seneca Falls, I passed the Starlite Motel, an affordable overnight stop on 5&20 (315-568-6149). At nearby Tyre, I swung left on to SR89 and biked 3 miles south to the intersection of East Bayard Road. For 13 miles, two-lane East Bayard Road stays close to the Seneca River as it heads west. En route, it changes its name to West Bayard Road, then East River Road and finally West River Road. Homes line the first few miles, then it crosses open farmland and there were no shoulders anywhere. But the only traffic I met consisted of residents' cars and occasional delivery vans.
So why come this way? To by-pass several miles of traffic-thronged business districts through the adjoining towns of Seneca Falls and Waterloo which lie astride 5&20, are devoid of shoulders. and are chock-a-block with parked vehicles.
Instead, Bayard-River Road took me west across SR414 and eventually it ended at SR96A. Riding shoulders ten feet wide, I cycled north a mile on 96A, then turned west onto Roads 5&20. After another mile, I swung left at the sign "Seneca Lake State Park." Then it was just a short ride down the park road to the shore of Seneca Lake. And along with dozens of local cyclists, I biked along this scenic lakeshore trail and past the Geneva Visitors Center to the far west end of the park.
To reach the Motel-6 from here, I crossed 5&20 at a pedestrian crossing. Then, using the Geneva street map on my MAPtech map, I cycled up Elizabeth Blackwell Street into Seneca, turned left on Main Street, passed a colorful block of federal-style town houses, and headed west along Washington Street. Shaded by tall elms and lined by historic, foursquare homes, Washington offers a quiet, low-traffic ride across Geneva to the intersection of Reed. Here I turned left for one block. And there, across shoulderless 5&20, was the Motel-6 I was seeking.
(M. Motel-6, on 5&20 near Reed. Two story but all downstairs units have at-door parking, RD. Offers a BB weekly rate. 315-789-4050.)
DAY 5: Geneva--day loop ride to Phelps and Gorham and back to Geneva, 37 miles. I enjoyed every mile of this leisurely ride that takes you exploring the back country west of Geneva, all on level to mildly-rolling roads. Since the tour is described in exquisite detail on Page 49 of 30-RIDES, including the network of low-traffic roads that you follow, I recommend that-- just as I did-- you let the routing in 30-RIDES be your guide.
From the Motel-6, I cycled north on Reed then turned right on William Street and left on Pulteney Street. Pulteney then led into Castle Street, a real showplace lined by massive colonial homes.
From here, 30-RIDES led me on to Pre-Emption Road. And the rest is superbly described in this excellent book. On quiet roads, I glimpsed Phelps, Seneca Castle and Gorham, all villages with a slower pace of life.
All of the roads were adequately signed and with my MAPtech map, the itinerary was easy to follow. Finally, after 5 hours of easy pedaling, it brought me back into Geneva and ended on 5&20, just half a mile east of the Motel-6. A rewarding tour and well-worth cycling!
DAY 6: Geneva to Watkins Glen, 45 miles. To begin this scenic and somewhat hilly cross country ride, I left the Motel-6 and followed in reverse the same route out of Geneva that I had used to enter the city on Day 4. This brought me out on SR96A heading south and I pedaled on the wide shoulder for about 1.5 miles to where East Lake Road branches right. (Close by, on SR96A, is huge Rose Hill Mansion, built in Greek Revival style in 1839 and open to the public.)
But I didn't have time to linger there today. Instead I pedaled south along East Lake Road, a scenic 2-lane lakeside road flanked by cottages and homes. Eight miles south, the road was barred by a closed gate leading into Samsun State Park, closed that is to cars. But cyclists and walkers can pass through freely and I continued south on the paved park road to the Visitor Center (soft drinks, camping). By the way, all NY State Parks admit cyclists without charge though you must pay $13 to camp overnight.
Here I picked up a free park road map and followed it on south to a green gate clearly visible on the right. This gate admits cyclists to the park's paved Lake Trail which stays close to the lakeshore for two more miles to the park's south exit. A connecting county road then led on for another two miles of lakeside cycling, then turned left and climbed into Willard village.
Here I rode beside a tall wire fence enclosing the massive brick buildings of a State Correctional Facility.
Next, I turned right on to CR131 (aka Upper Lake Road). For several miles, CR131 wound above Seneca Lake, past vineyards and vacation homes. There wasn't much traffic but a local cyclist told me that when the shift changed around 2 p.m., employees drive by in their cars.
At Town Line Road I turned left and climbed steeply for a mile to SR414/96A then turned right for another mile into the timeworn crossroads village of Lodi (Load-Eye). (Tip: if you need a snack or drink, continue from Willard uphill on 96A to Ovid, which has a convenience store and supermarket. Then head south to Lodi on SR414/96A.) Personally, though, I prefer the CR131 route. Also from Lodi, it's quite possible to cycle gradually downhill all the way into Watkins Glen on the 4 feet-wide shoulder of SR414. Yes, you'll enjoy great views of Seneca Lake much of the way. But the 4-feet-wide shoulders leave you uncomfortably close to the 18-wheelers that frequent this route.)
I left Lodi south on SR414 for half a mile, then branched left on to paved Lodi Center Road (aka CR137) a shoulder-less 2-lane road with almost no traffic. Past Amish farms and through Finger lakes National Forest, I climbed gradually uphill to Williams Townshend Road. Here paving ends and I continued south for another mile on CR137 to Seneca Road (aka South Town Line Road). A right turn on Seneca led in five minutes to Bishops Corners Road (aka CR4). And back on paving once more, I cycled south on this road, across two steep gulches, and into SR79.
Turning right on to SR79, I rode its 4-foot wide shoulder for a mile into the village of Burdett, poised on a hilltop with stunning views of Seneca Lake and Watkins Glen far below. Leaving Burdett, SR 79 plunges steeply downhill in a breathtaking descent to the town of Watkins Glen on the south edge of Seneca Lake.
Watkins Glen, a busy resort town of 2,700 people, clusters around the lake and the scenic glen in Watkins Glen State Park. If you're headed for the Budget Inn as I was, turn left into Decatur Street (one block before Franklin Street, the main street). Cycle south on quiet Decatur Street to 15th Street, turn right and you will swiftly emerge beside a large supermarket right opposite the Budget Inn. (M. Budget Inn, 435 S. Franklin St. Most units with at-door parking, refrigerators, RD, 607-535-4800, www.budgetinnwatkinsglen. com.)
DAY 7: Watkins Glen--exploring Watkins Glen State Park. For a change of pace, I spent this day hiking the deep, ice-sculptured chasm with 16 glistening waterfalls that forms the centerpiece of Watkins Glen State Park. All this lies within walking distance of the Budget Inn. To experience the glen, you must walk the Trail through the bottom of the gorge. Although only 1.5 miles in length, I found myself walking up or down a total of 800 steps. Since a shuttle bus runs from the park entrance to the upper end of the gorge, most people ride up and walk down.
After that, I biked north up Decatur to the town center, full of restaurants, shops and views of Seneca Lake from the waterfront park.
DAY 8: Watkins Glen to Penn Yan, 35 miles. Today's ride began with a steep, one-mile climb high above Seneca Lake on shoulderless, rather busy SR14. But once on top, the road leveled out, wide shoulders appeared and I thoroughly enjoyed the rest of the trip. As I pedaled along, there were intermittent views of Seneca Lake but SR14 stayed high and level and was a pleasure to ride.
Approaching Dresden, I watched for the 4 tall smokestacks of the town's power plant off to the right. Following my MAPtech map, I then turned right into Dresden's Main Street and rode east for half a mile. Next, I turned right into Seneca Street. About 200 yards down Seneca, a rail line crosses the street. And here I stopped. Because just across a small field on my right I saw a picnic table and, beside it, a sign marking the start of the Keuka Lake Outlet Trail.
Caution: Do not attempt this trail if you have a road bike with skinny tires. Go back to Main Street and head west on SR54 into Penn Yan.
Traversing deep forests beside the swiftly-running Outlet Canal, the Outlet-Trail climbs gradually for 8 miles into Penn Yan. Motorized vehicles are banned and the Trail, which ranges in width from 1-8 feet, consists of smooth, hard dirt. A couple of times, I had to walk around a muddy section. But any moderately experienced cyclist should have no trouble riding this beautiful Trail.
On a sunny weekday afternoon in May, I met only one hiker and one cyclist. Roughly 3 miles from Dresden, I cycled past a series of old mine buildings in Outlet Trail Park and climbed a small rise to a picnic shelter overlooking a waterfall. Approaching Penn Yan, the Trail has a scattering of pea-sized gravel, then is paved for the last half mile. It ends on Seneca Street behind the huge white towers of the Burkett Mills Building.
Using the Penn Yan street map on my MAPtech map, I biked west on Seneca and across Main Street, then followed Water Street into Elm Street. Just 50 yards east on Elm, I saw the Budget Inn.
Penn Yan, a small industrial and agricultural center, lies at the head of Y-shaped Keuka Lake. (M. Budget Inn, in center at 206 Elm Street, 24 rooms on two floors, only a few with at-door parking, refrigerators, supermarket near. 315-536-4474.)
Deserted country road meanders along shore of Keuka
Lake during the Bluff Point ride
DAY 9: Penn Yan--day loop ride around Bluff Point back to Penn Yan, 27 miles. Local cyclists consider this one of the most scenic and rewarding rides in the Finger Lakes. From Penn Yan's Budget Inn, I cycled south on SR54A for 1.5 miles, then turned left down West Lake Road (CR21). For 3 miles, this level road stays next to the lakeshore.
At the junction of East Bluff Drive, I turned left into Keuka Park village and rode through the modern campus of Keuka College, a well-known 4-year college for women.
With forested hills to the right and the sparkling waters of Keuka Lake on the left, East Bluff Drive led on south until my computer read exactly 11 miles. At this spot, opposite mailbox 1149, the pavement ends and East Bluff Drive sweeps steeply uphill on a smooth dirt surface.
It was a 3/4ths-mile climb to the top of Bluff Point. From the summit, I looked out on a vast expanse of water that included parts of all 3 arms of Keuka Lake. Atop Bluff Point, paving began again and I braked all the way down the steep descent, with stunning views of the lake's long west arm reaching all the way to Branchport.
Down at lake level once more, West Bluff Drive becomes a meandering, picturesque country road that is mostly level with a few low hills. After about 6 miles, West Bluff Drive entered Keuka Lake State Park, an alluring hillside park with camping and swimming. In my lowest climbing gear, I spun my way up the steep climb to the Park Visitor Center, then turned left down Pepper Road to join SR54A. On shoulders ten feet wide, I biked north to Park Road (CR25) then coasted most of the way back down to Keuka College.
From here, I returned back to Penn Yan and the Budget Inn via the same route I had used on the way out. This ride is described in TOURGUIDE Page 202 and in 30-RIDES on Page 139.
DAY 10: Penn Yan--day loop ride around Keuka Lake and back to Penn Yan, 45 miles. Although this ride is rated as one of the best in the Finger Lakes, I met only one cyclist when I circumnavigated Keuka Lake on a sunny weekday in May.
From Penn Yan's Budget Inn, I headed south on SR54A, a scenic 8-mile stretch with a breathtaking panorama of Branchport as I soared downhill into the village. If you need refreshment, there's a convenience store and pizzeria at the crossroads in Branchport. But from this point on, the shoulder on SR54A narrows to just two feet. Still, I found this a VERY scenic road as it meanders beside the lakefront for at least ten miles, with very few trucks or speeding cars. Not until SR54A approached Hammondsport did the number of cars and trucks increase.
Sloping up from the southern tip of Keuka Lake, Hammondsport is a small town of Victorian homes clustered around a traditional town square , widely known for its old- fashioned ice cream parlor. Also here is a supermarket, several eateries and the Hammondsport Motel, on the lakefront at 24 Water Street, with at-door parking (607-569- 2600.)
From Hammondsport, I took SR54 back to Penn Yan. Most of the way it stayed about a mile back from the lake and 200 feet higher. Thus it wasn't as captivating as SR54A and it carried more traffic, including a few 18-wheelers. With a lunch stop in Hammondsport, the entire trip took just over six hours. You'll find this ride described in TOURGUIDE Page 192, and in 30-RIDES on Page 187.
DAY 11: Penn Yan to Canandaigua, 35 miles. For the first 20 miles, as far as Canandaigua Lake, this is a scenic but rather strenuous ride up and down a series of challenging hills. But after reaching Canandaigua Lake, I encountered only one significant hill.
Heading northwest out of Penn Yan on Maple Avenue (SR364), the ride began with a series of long hills through rolling farmland. For the first 9 miles to the village of Potter, I cycled on a shoulder 4 feet wide. Then for the next 4 miles to Middlesex, the shoulder narrowed to just 2 feet.
Although TOURGUIDE lists a convenience store and restaurant in Middlesex, I saw neither as I biked through the village. But from here on, SR364 climbed for two miles without interruption up the side of a massive hill to a turn-off on the left signed "Vine Valley Road".
It was here the climbing ended. And I sped down Vine Valley Road towards Lake Canandaigua, now visible ahead. At Vine Valley community on the shore of the lake, I turned right into East Lake Road, then followed this picturesque county road as it meandered north with constant views of the lake just below. At one point, I climbed for half a mile to a viewpoint high above the lake. From here on, East Lake Road became CR-11 with smooth shoulders 4 feet wide.
For the next few miles, CR-11 stays close to the lakeshore and the road was dotted with vacation homes. Then CR-11 joined SR364. And I continued north towards Canandaigua on its 5-feet-wide shoulder.
At the first traffic light, I found a Valero convenience store. But instead of turning left and riding on shoulderless Lakeshore Drive towards the city, I biked another 300 yards north on SR364 to its intersection with Routes 5&20. Here I turned right and pedaled along the wide shoulder, past the Econo-Lodge, to the Super-8 Motel.
Canandaigua, a resort town of 12,000 people, lies on the northen tip of Canandaigua Lake. (M. Motel Super-8, 3 miles east of town on Eastern Boulevard (Routes 5&20) opposite a supermarket. Modern corridor style but offers better value than most other motels here, 585-395-7224. Get a downstairs room at rear overlooking lawn and lake frequented by Canada geese and goslings.) Today's route is covered in TOURGUIDE on Page 207.
DAY 12: Canandaigua--day loop ride to Bristol Springs and Naples, returning to Canandaigua, 45 miles. This ride took me down one side of Canadaigua Lake on a route so scenic and enjoyable that I decided to return the same way --besides, I'd ridden most of the east shore of the lake the previous day.
From the Super-8 Motel, I cycled west on 5&20 to Main Street, headed north for one short block, then turned left into Parish Street. Heading west on Parish, I took the first street on the left and began cycling south on West Lake Drive. Soon, I was pedaling past boat marinas and plush homes and cottages next to Canandaigua Lake--all very scenic and picturesque. West Lake Drive had no shoulder but this was a weekday in May and traffic was light, mostly cars and an occasional pick-up towing a boat trailer.
Also known as CR-16, West Lake Road continues beside Lake Canandaigua for several miles. Then I turned left again on to Cove Road and left again on to Seneca Road which brought me to Seneca Point community. After Seneca Point, the same lakeshore road became Bopple Hill Road. And I soon discovered why. Suddenly the road swung west and began a long, steep and winding climb up Bopple Hill to intersect at the top with SR21.
Still climbing, SR21 rolled into the village of Bristol Springs, highest point on this ride. Throughout its length from Canadaigua to Naples, SR21 has a shoulder with a minimum width of 3 feet. From Bristol Springs, I fairy flew downhill back to the shore of Canandaigua Lake. Then SR21 led south through a series of lakeside communities and past woodlands and wetlands into Naples.
A traditional colonial town with a Main Street lined by tall trees and impressive mansions, Naples exudes elegance and charm. Some of the stately homes have become pricey B&Bs. Though there's no motel, Naples does have a convenience store and a Shur Fine supermarket plus one or more restaurants.
As I've explained, I did not return up the other side of Canandaigua Lake. Instead, I biked back on SR21 and up the hill to Bristol Springs. On Page 7, B&H suggests returning to Canandaigua on SR84 and 5&20. Try this if you like. Or return to Canandaigua by hilly SR21. But I chose to return by the same route that I came, by descending Bopple Hill and biking back on Seneca, Cove and West Lake Road. This ride is described in part on Page 7 in B&H,and on Page 75 in 30-RIDES.
DAY 13: Canandaigua to Brockport via the Erie Canal, 64 miles. Today's trip began with a 17-mile ride on paved roads to Lock 29 of the Erie Canal. Then you ride for 47 miles on the car-free towpath of the Erie Canal, into Brockport and its Econo-Lodge Motel.
Don't be put off by the total mileage. The entire trip is dead flat. The towpath-trail averages 8 feet in width and roughly 8 miles is paved, mostly near Rochester. The rest is hard-packed dirt with a thin scattering of pea-sized gravel. Even on a loaded touring bike, most cyclists can cover at least 8 miles per hour on the unpaved sections. However, I recommend an early start.
Leaving from Canandaigua's Super-8 Motel, I biked west on 5&20 to Main Street and headed north on SR21. For 7 miles to Manchester, this highway has shoulders ten feet wide. At Manchester, I crossed I-90 and at the intersection is (M> Roadside Inn, a 2-story motel with inside corridor, 716-289-3811). Continuing north on SR21, it's a 7-mile ride on 2-feet- wide shoulders into Palmyra. Two miles south of Palmyra, a 2-story motel was under construction.
Palmyra village has a Victorian look and was the birthplace of the Mormon religion. It has a famous crossroads with a church on each corner. Here I turned west on to SR31 and cycled one mile west to a small park on the right, the location of Lock 29 of the Erie Canal.
Opened in 1825 to link New York City with the Great Lakes via the Hudson River, the Erie Canal is still used by smaller barges and private boats. The 90 miles from Palmyra to Lockport, all of which I rode, is known as the National Heritage Corridor. Almost the entire way, you ride on the original canal towpath, passing 13 canalside towns and villages, all with a 19th century look and a historic business district on the south bank. The main street of most towns crosses the canal on a unique lift bridge which is raised horizontally to allow boats to pass underneath. Too, at half a dozen working locks along the way, you can watch boats rise or fall as they pass through.
From Lock 29, the towpath trail begins on the canal's south bank but after 3 miles it crosses to the north bank on an old iron road bridge. With a short exception, it stays on the north bank the rest of the way. Away from towns, the towpath is remarkably silent and I saw flocks of ducks and geese and a number of herons and bluebirds. Most of the way, the canal is about 35 yards wide but in places it broadens to 200 yards.
Biking along the canal is to relive history every mile of the way. At Fairport's colorful waterfront, I stopped briefly to listen to a concert of American folk music performed by a live orchestra outside the town's old-fashioned ice-cream parlor. All this occurred next to Fairport's unique sloping lift bridge.
Leaving Fairport, I pushed the bike up a ramp beside a flight of ten steps. Then on through Pittsford, Brighton and Rochester, several miles of the towpath is paved and I passed under several highway bridges carrying heavy traffic in and out of Rochester. Yet despite passing within a few miles of a major American city (Rochester) there was no sign of urban development or industry.
Next came Lock 30 State Canal Park and I pedaled on through a greenbelt park and looped across the canal and back on a series of bridges. On past Spencerport and the historic village of Adams Basin, I finally rolled into Brockport. All the way, the towpath trail stays close to the canal and the Heritage Trail map in the New York State Canalway Trail folder was perfectly adequate and easy to follow.
From Brockport's Main Street bridge, it's a one-mile ride south to the intersection of SR19 and SR31, site of (M. Econo-Lodge, 39 units on two floors, some with at-door parking, 585- 637-0434). Most of today's ride is covered in the Erie Canal Bicyclist and Hiker Tour Guide, pages 73-95.
Today, I met as many cyclists as I had encountered while touring the entire Finger Lakes. Among them were Tom and Roberta Maddock, cycling across country from New Hampshire to Eugene, Oregon on their Co-Motion tandem towing a BoB trailer.
After dropping 20 feet in Lock 32, this motor yacht
heads east along the Erie Canal. Lock 32 is in the State Canal Park
right beside the Towpath bike trail.
DAY 14: Brockport to Lockport via the Erie Canal towpath, 41 miles. The final day of my trip proved to be an easy, flat ride along the canal towpath and past a series of historic towns, each with a lift bridge that led across the canal to a 19th Century business district 2- 6 blocks long.
At Holley, the village square flanked by sandstone buildings was worth a look. Then came larger Albion, its dome-capped courthouse ringed by opulent mansions and unusual houses built with cobblestones. Here is (M. Dollinger Motor Court, 2 miles south of canal on SR98 and a half-mile west on SR31 with 4-feet-wide shoulders most of the way, 24 units with at- door parking and refrigerators, 585-569-6308).
Eleven miles west of Albion, the towpath runs atop a concrete dam wall, six feet wide, with a waterfall below on the right. Be careful, the surface is washboarded. This was my introduction to Medina, another town with a Victorian Main Street. (M. Dollinger's Courtyard Motel, a mile south on Main Street, 18 units, 585-798-0016).
Gasport came next, a small community with an old abandoned factory on the south bank of the canal.
Approaching Lockport (pop. 22,000), the massive walls of Locks 34 and 35 loomed ahead, largest lock system on the Erie Canal. To reach the top of the locks, I had to ride--and walk part way--up a steeply-sloped paved road beside the locks. This is an impressive series of locks and you'll want to stop and take photos from the viewpoints.
Immediately west of the locks is the Big Bridge, one of the world's widest bridges. It spans the Erie Canal and is so wide that part of it is used as a parking lot.
And so it was here, on the Big Bridge, that my tour ended, a junket of 537 miles in 13 one- day stages with every night in a comfortable and generally-affordable motel. This last day's ride of the trip is described on Pages 64-72 of the Erie Canal Bicyclist and Hiker Tour Guide.
I didn't stay overnight in Lockport but, according to the town's website, there are 3 motels. Lockport Motel, 716-434-5595 is near Lock E34. Holiday Inn, 716-434-6151, is also close to Lock E34. And the Comfort Inn is one mile south on SR78, 716-434-4411.
MAPS AND GUIDEBOOKS
(TOURGUIDE) FINGER LAKES BICYCLIST'S TOUR GUIDE, Second Edition, 2005, ISBN 1889602-33-7. By cyclo-tourist Harvey Botzman, this comprehensive guide covers 64 bike-tested routes around and between all 11 Finger Lakes, including a 3-day introductory tour; routes to and from airports in Syracuse and Rochester; and circular routes around every Finger Lake. Available from CycloTour Guidebooks, PO Box 10585 , Rochester, NY 14610-0585; Tel 585-244-6157; www.cyclotour.com; or email <cyclotour@cyclotour.com>. ( ISBN # for Third Edition due 2007 will be 978-1889602332.)
ERIE CANAL BICYCLIST AND HIKER TOUR GUIDE, Second Edition, 2004, ISBN 1- 889602-20-5. Covers cycling routes along the entire Erie Canal from Albany to Tonowanda, including the National Heritage Corridor between Palmyra and Lockport. By Harvey Botzman, Cyclotour Guide Books, available at same address as book listed above.
(30-RIDES) 30 BICYCLE TOURS, FINGER LAKES REGION, by Mark Roth and Sally Walters, Third Edition, ISBN 0-88150-411-4, BackCountry Press, 1998. Maps and routes for 20 one day loop rides from popular Finger Lakes towns plus brief circumnavigation of all Finger Lakes. Usually available from Amazon.com. Emphasizes travel on quiet backroads and this book is essential for making these rides where they are listed on our Finger Lakes Tour.
(B&H) BIKING AND HIKING IN THE CENTRAL FINGER LAKES REGION, free from www.finger-lakes.com or by calling 800-228-2760 and is available free at almost every Visitor Information Office in the Central Finger Lakes region. Describes 12 bicycle loop tours with outline map and route directions including some day loop rides used on our Finger Lakes Tour. (Note: most of these bike tours take you on the shoulders of main roads in comparison to the low-traffic backroads of the book listed above.)
MAPtech Road Map of Finger Lakes Region covering 14 counties and 9 cities. Shows every highway and county road with names. This or a similar map is absolutely indispensable for making our Finger Lakes Tour. Does not cover the Erie Canal. On sale everywhere in the Finger Lakes at $5. May be obtainable from MAPtech, PO Box 230, North Greece, NY 14515-0230, or from Rochmaps@aol.com.
NEW YORK STATE CANALWAY TRAIL (free), available from NY State Canals at 800- 422-6254 or from <www.canals.state.ny.us>. Also available free at most Visitor Information Offices in the Finger Lakes and Erie Canal. Indispensable map of Erie Canal towpath-trail.
ACCOMMODATIONS
For an On-Line list of all accommodations and campgrounds in every New York town, go to <www.iloveny.com>. Click on "Accommodations", then click on "Hotels/Motels" or "B&Bs" or "Campgrounds". Then go to the "Finger Lakes" region and type name of town into the field box below.
Although our Finger Lakes and Erie Canal Tour is based on overnighting at affordable motels, most towns also have several B&Bs. We personally prefer motels because they tend to cost less, you can usually take your bike into your room, and you can prepare cold meals and snacks without hindrance. Several of our motels had refrigerators in the room.
Motels come in two basic types: the modern interior-corrridor type in which you must pass through the office to reach your room; and the older one or two story type in which lower floor units have at-door parking. Most cyclists agree that at-door parking is more convenient since you can take your bike in and out without being observed. Whenever possible, I mention the type of motel that I stayed at.
Whether motels or B&Bs, the majority of Finger Lakes and Erie Canal hostelries raise rates by about 20% on Friday and Saturday nights. Rates also tend to be higher after Memorial Day and before Labor Day weekends. Most motels also give a discount to AARP or AAA members.
If you're actually tent camping, you can reserve a site at most state parks by calling 1-800- 456-2267 or On-Line at <www.nysparks.state.ny.us> And if you are tent camping, you may consider modifying our route to spend the night at more state parks. One state park you should try to visit is Taughannock Falls (pron. Teginnick) which we had to omit from our itinerary due to lack of affordable motels.
WHEN TO GO
The best cycling weeks are between April 23 and, but not including, the Memorial Day weekend. And between, but not including, the Labor Day weekend and mid October. Cycling author Harvey Botzman advises that September is usually the ideal time, when the grapes are being harvested and the young wine is available.
Between Memorial Day and Labor Day, rates tend to be higher and vacant rooms may be harder to find.
Regarding roads which run along lakeshores that are lined by vacation cottages and homes. These roads are usually two-lane with no shoulders. Even before Memorial Day and after Labor Day, people from nearby cities spend their weekends in these homes which results in more car and boat trailer traffic. So try to schedule your rides on these lakeshore roads from Monday through Thursday or perhaps until midday on Fridays.
While our 14-day itinerary was designed with middle-aged cyclists of average capability riding loaded touring bikes in mind, stronger riders --or those with a support vehicle to carry the luggage--might easily shave several days off our schedule. Or you could shorten our itinerary by eliminating one or more of the day-loop rides.
A FINAL WORD OF CAUTION
This trip is neither flat nor free of traffic. Be sure of your ability to pedal up hills in low gear. And do feel confident that you can cycle safely in traffic. Most roads which carry a significant flow of cars and trucks have a shoulder at least 4 feet wide. But just occasionally, you may meet an 18-wheeler on a road without shoulders that is normally considered a low- traffic route.
It's been my experience--and local cyclists I talked with concurred--that most Finger Lakes drivers are extra-careful and do not use the shoulder to drive on. But this isn't Germany or Switzerland and cyclists using the roads in America can't be too careful.
And do be sure to carry ample water and snacks because it's often a long way between villages with convenience stores.
Outline Map, Day Rides Not Shown