Traditional Half-timbered Houses in Dinkelsbuhl
By Norman D. Ford
Traditional Half-timbered Houses
in Dinkelsbuhl
I've just spent 16 memorable days cycling beside the rivers of Bavaria and
Austria on a network of mostly paved and car-free bike paths. Day-by-day,
I pedalled through a series of almost perfectly preserved towns and villages
straight out of the Middle Ages. Many were enclosed by still-intact city
walls. Entering the walls through a gate in a massive watchtower, I would
pedal through a maze of crooked, cobblestoned streets lined by half-timbered
medieval houses to picturesque squares with centuries-old churches and soaring
Gothic towers.
Out in the country, I cycled on level bike paths beside scenic rivers. The bike paths themselves may have been flat and easy to pedal. But they were full of hidden delights and surprises. Flat sections led through farmlands dotted with scarlet poppies and a patchwork quilt of blazing yellow rapeseed fields.
Elsewhere, rivers like the Danube wound between steep, forested mountains where hilltop castles, monasteries and abbeys loomed over the landscape.
Altogether, I cycled along three of Europe's most famous and popular Radwegs (bike paths): the Romantische Strasse and Altmuhltal Radwegs of Germany, and the Donau Radweg (Danube Bike Path) which runs through both Bavaria and Austria. The entire region is rich in history, and towns and villages along the way were on every tour bus itinerary.
But the tourist buses miss the many unspoiled and half-forgotten villages, and the spectacular river panoramas, that only bicyclists get to see. Bicycling is undoubtedly the one best way to explore this wonderful region--better, in my opinion, than seeing it from one of the many deluxe cruise boats that ply the Danube.
I'm not claiming my itinerary is perfect. But for anyone seeking a rewarding bike tour here, I guarantee my route will provide a world-class bicycle ride. For this reason, my tour is described in a way that makes it easy to follow. Flat it may be and easy to pedal but, especially along the Danube, the Radweg cuts through steep mountain ranges where river, road, railway and Radweg are often squeezed between precipitous cliffs.
In contrast to the hill and mountain terrain I usually ride through, my decision to ride this flatland route was because I was still recovering from a knee arthroscopy done earlier in the year. Normally, I could cycle almost twice as far each day as I did on this trip. And stronger riders should have no difficulty in covering more ground each day than I suggest.
In the report below, I identify, in red type and with ****, all parts of my trip which rank among the most scenic and unique bike travel experiences in Europe. I also name the hotel at which I stayed at each town. (Abbreviations: H = Hotel. RD = Recommended. Example: "H. Gasthof Zur Poste, RD" means "Hotel Gasthof Zur Poste, Recommended.") In most cases, I simply picked a hotel, gasthof or pension from a hotel guide and phoned to reserve a room a day or two before arriving. Most accommodations were good and others fair but very few were disappointing.
Many Radfahrers (bike tourists) travel without reservations and look for a room whenever they're ready to stop. Still, for anyone who shops for food in supermarkets--and thus needs to be in a town center--I prefer to phone ahead and reserve a room. By way of explanation, I'm a vegetarian, prefer not to eat in restaurants, and eat a raw food vegan diet (based on the report "Enjoy Youthful Vigor and Robust Health Till Age 90 Plus" on our companion website www.nohypehealth.org). I also travel alone which means I always have a single room to myself, without paying the huge supplement charged by most tour operators. Going solo also allows me to choose my own pace without having to wait for others who can't keep up or holding back others who may be too fast.
By early June, 500 Radfahrers a day were arriving in Vienna after pedalling down the Donau Radweg. So many, in fact that the regular trains could not haul them all back out.
The solution? In season, Austrian Railways now runs a daily Rad-Tramper Train. With six huge freight cars (goods wagons) each capable of carrying nearly 100 bikes, and with passenger cars for all cyclists, the Rad-Tramper hauls 500 cyclists and their bikes back each day to Germany.
In mid-June I was unable to reserve a room in Vienna and the Tourist Office there advised not coming in without a reservation. Except on 3-day long weekend holidays, however, it was usually easy to reserve a room elsewhere by phoning a couple of days in advance.
From Houston, Texas, I flew overnight by Lufthansa, with my bike in a box, to Frankfurt, Germany, taxied to a hotel near the bahnhof (railway station), stayed overnight, and left my bike box and suitcase in the hotel's garage until I returned. I made both reservations over the DB German Railways website at rates substantially lower than the hotel's regular walk-in rate.
Next morning, I wheeled my bike over to the Hauptbahnhof and travelled by two short, connecting train trips to Wertheim, a historic walled town located on the Romantische Strasse Radweg. At no cost, DB had an employee meet my train at the changeover point and help get my bike and bags between the two connecting trains.
This was just one of many examples of the huge pro-bike culture that exists in central Europe. Almost all trains carry bicycles. Billions of dollars have been spent to build a bicycling infrastructure that includes futuristic spiral bridge ramps and parabolic bike-pedestrian bridges and bike ferries and even traffic lights for bicycle lanes. While Americans become increasingly flabby and overweight--trapped in their over- mechanized, environmentally-destructive car culture--more and more Europeans are leading a health and fitness lifestyle as they enjoy the freedom of the Radwegs.
You'll find extensive information on hotels, rail travel, weather, seasons etc., later in this report. I also recommend reading the BIKELANDIA link on the home page menu. Meanwhile, here is a day-by-day report on my tour.
DAY 1: Wertheim to Bad Mergentheim (Germany), 45 kms. It was nearly midday when I arrived in Wertheim by train from Frankfurt. But there was plenty of time left to bike the flat Romantische Strasse Radweg along the Tauber River to Bad Mergentheim. Here the bike path was marked by "Leibliches Taubertal" directional signs, the first of many varieties I would see on this trip.
Though I encountered several hundred other cyclists on today's ride, they were all well strung out and I never felt crowded. Fruit orchards cloaked in white and pink blossoms lined much of the route. Then the Radweg entered Tauberbischofen. Crooked, cobblestoned streets led to the Marktplatz or town square. This one, lined by tall, gabled houses, was the first of many--all magnificently preserved--I would bike through on this trip.
On through more villages, each clustered around an onion-domed church, the Radweg soon reached Bad Mergentheim. With its colorful Marktplatz and huge, circular Schloss (fortress), this popular health spa is filled with hotels, gasthof, pensions and zimmer-frei (B&Bs), the majority filled with touring cyclists. H. Deutschmeister, RD.
[Routing Tip: Had I known, I would have taken a train to Lohr (no change needed) rather than Wertheim, then enjoyed an extra day's ride along the Tauber River Radweg to Wertheim.]
DAY 2: Bad Mergentheim to Rothenburg, 48 kms. It rained today and having fenders really paid off, as did covering my panniers with the waterproof covers sold at the many bike shops along the Radweg. "Leibliches Taubertal" signs still pointed out the route which was all-paved except for 5 kilometers of hard-packed dirt halfway. Despite the rain, the unpaved surface stayed hard with very little mud.
Midway in Cregligen village I bought a snack at a lebensmittel (small food store) before it closed for lunch from noon to 14:00 (2 p.m.). Most towns with 2,000 or more population have a small supermarket and larger towns have a BIO or healthfood shop. But food shops everywhere are closed from 13:00 (1 p.m.) on Saturday until Monday morning--or till Tuesday morning if Monday is also a holiday. Since I buy all my food in stores rather than eat in restaurants, I usually stock up on food and stay at the same hotel on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights. During the weekend, I take day rides out and back to the same hotel. In Germany, some Tourist Offices give away maps showing as many as twenty different all-day local rides. Each route is marked by signs bearing the route number. You'll see many of these signs, such as R-12 or R-20, as you ride along.
Staying at the same base town for 2-3 nights also guarantees you have a room on crowded Friday and Saturday nights. It also means less packing and unpacking and fewer reservations to make. However, I did not count these weekend stopovers in describing this trip nor have I included the extra distance that I cycled during side trips on weekends. The daily distances I quote are strictly the kilometers I pedalled along the Radwegs.
As in all villages I passed through, houses in Creglingen were masonry with two or more stories, a red-tiled roof and a small yard. Homes were invariably well kept and everyone seemed quite affluent. Many people raised large vegetable gardens on leased land on the outskirts.
The Radweg was well-marked except through towns and in Creglingen I had to ask the way. Until today, I had always believed most Germans spoke at least some English. Not so, I discovered. Fewer than one in ten seemed to do so and I found myself staying at hotels, and inquiring at Tourist Offices, where no English was spoken. Nonetheless, most people understood my feeble German and were invariably ready to point out the way.
From Cregligen, the all-paved Radweg crosses a series of low hills and climbs into Rothenburg.
****Rothenburg. An ancient, fortified, hilltop town with streets so haphazard that a map is essential. Rothenburg is entered by one of several watchtower gates in the massive city walls. H. Gasthof Butz, RD.
DAY 3: Rothenburg to Dinkelsbuhl, 52 kms. From Rothenburg's Spittelgasse gate, small white "Romantische Strasse" signs with red arrows marked every turn on the all-paved bike path. In villages like Gebensmittel and Schillingsfurst, tall May poles adorned with circular wreaths were powerful reminders of our pagan heritage.
I'd started out wearing a conspicuous rear view mirror on my sunglasses. It was totally unnecessary in this safe cycling environment. But it made a wonderful conversation piece. Each day, at least a dozen passing cyclists would spot the "Ruckspiegel fur Fahrad" and stop to ask about it. To those who spoke English, I explained how necessary it was on American roads. Often, it would lead to an interesting meeting and conversation. Each day, I would meet Radfahrers who recalled seeing me previously with the Ruckspiegel.
Probably half of all passing cyclists would call out a greeting, usually "Morgen" (Good Morning), or Tag (Hi!), or "Groess Gott", the traditional greeting of Bavaria and the high Alps.
The Radweg looped around the larger town of Feuchtwangen, avoiding all traffic, and it took only six hours to reach Dinkelsbuhl.
****Dinkelsbuhl. Germany's best-known medieval village is full of half-timbered houses with steep, pointed roofs, all painted in a blaze of colors. Sixteen towers adorn the city walls and there are four gates. Worth visiting is the Museum of the Third Dimension in Nordlingen Tower. H. Goldenes Hirsch, RD.
DAY 4: Dinkelsbuhl to Nordlingen, 46 kms. White "Romantische Strasse" bike signs guided me through a bucolic landscape filled with the sweet smell of fresh-mown hay and the song of the European cuckoo. Each of the small villages I passed through had a May pole in the churchyard, a gasthof, and several zimmer-frei (vacant B&Bs). The sky was so cloudless I had to stop at a village apotheke and buy sunblock.
An hour south of Dinkelsbuhl I met a fit-looking fortyish man walking briskly and carrying a large rucksack. My greeting of "Groess Gott" was returned with "Good Day" in an Irish accent.
Mark Crawford, from Northern Ireland, was spending his retirement from the British Army on a series of walking vacations. Each day, he walked as far as I biked. On this trip, he was hiking the entire Romantische Strasse from Fuessen in the far south to Wurzburg in the north. He stayed in hotels and had been walking today since 5 a.m.
Though only 70 percent of today's ride was paved, it took only 5 hours to reach Nordlingen.
****NORDLINGEN. I entered Germany's largest walled town through a narrow gate below the lofty Baldinger Tor, one of many watchtowers in the city wall. The massive wall, with its slits for archers, is 3.5 kilometers in length and you can walk completely around the top. Casbah-like alleys link Nordlingen's delightful squares, most with an outdoor cafe. My hotel was next to an enormous church bell tower. Every quarter hour was struck (fortunately turned off at night) but each morning at six I was greeted by a full carillon concert.
Here I met a Texas couple touring in a rented car, an experience I would rather avoid after having seen the traffic and trucks on Germany's main roads. H. Altreuser, OK but for the chimes and limited bikespace.
From Nordlingen, the Romantische Strasse continues south and I spent a long weekend here exploring it. This convinced me that I'd already cycled the best part of this popular Radweg. Tomorrow, I would leave Germany's Romantic Road and head east to join the Altmuhltal Radweg, another of Germany's favorite long distance bike routes.
DAY 5: Nordlingen to Pappenheim, 60 kms. Most of today's ride was on a nameless bike route which links the Romantische Strasse and the Altmuhltal Radwegs. A giveaway map from Nordlingen Tourist Office showed the route. It followed paved and unpaved radwegs and country roads, all marked with small bike signs. Through villages like Alerheim and Rudelstetten--each with its garlanded May pole--the route led through the stunning Marktplatz of Wemding, dominated by a pair of enormous church towers.
An unpaved forest trail then led across a range of hills to Orting village and its bahnhof. Beyond here, the trail on my map faded out into a muddy forest footpath devoid of signs. Since it was past midday, I returned to Orting bahnhof and hopped a train for the 8-minute trip to Treuchtlingen. (Note: Map #35 in the Deutsche Rad Tourenkarte series, appears to show the correct route between Orting and Treutchlingen.)
Thus far today I'd met very few touring cyclists. But scores of Radfahrers were riding past Treutchlingen bahnhof and I discovered they were all cycling on the Altmuhltal Radweg. So I biked along with them for the beautiful 8 kilometer riverside ride into Pappenheim. H. Krone, RD.
DAY 6: Pappenheim to Eichstatt, 50 kms. Today, brown signs with a snail emblem guided me along the Altmuhltal Radweg, a quiet, riverside route through a Natur Park and very popular with German cyclists. Towns and villages along the way advertised themselves as "Radfahrerfreundlich" or "bike-friendly."
I learned today to be doubly careful about a hotel's location when making reservations. The Zur Huttenschanke Hotel was listed as near the center. But it was the center of Obereichstatt village rather than the center of Eichstatt, six kilometers farther on, a larger town where I had intended to stay. Nonetheless, the hotel was so delightful I decided to stay there. But instead of a supermarket to shop at, I found a very restricted choice of foodstuffs at a small lebensmittel. There was still time left, though, to cycle on into Eichstatt and explore its famous Altstadt (historic section), filled with decorous baroque architecture, before returning to Obereichstatt. H. Zur Huttenschanke, RD and priced right.
DAY 7: Eichstatt to Beilingries, 50 kms. Entering Eichstatt, a massive fortress looks down on the Radweg which then passes in front of an enormous medieval monastery. Much of the Radweg through Eichstatt, a larger town, had been torn up during road repairs. And Radweg signs were almost non-existant.
Once more my rear view mirror saved the day. I'd stopped at a traffic light when a middle-aged cyclist rode up and saw my Ruckspiegel. It turned out he spoke fluent English. As we rode along together, I asked how to get through town.
"It's tricky right now,"he said." But I'm cycling to work and that's the same way you want to go. So just follow me."
Ten minutes later I was clear of town and back on the Radweg. My friend said "Auf Weidersehen" and biked off to work. This was just one of many friendly gestures I experienced, largely I believe because being a cyclist puts you in closer touch with local people.
More brown Altmuhltal signs indicated today's route which was two-thirds paved. Yet twice I missed the way and had to ask. But German cyclists also missed these turns. Actually, we were all riding too fast and failed to see the signs. H. Zur Krone, RD.
Day 8: Beilingries to Kelheim, 50 kms. Soon after starting, the brown Altmuhltal bike signs gave way to white metal "Tour de Baroque" signs. But the Radweg, though only 50 percent paved, was clearly marked and I met several hundred other cyclists, most aged over 45.
At Dietfurt, the Altmuhl River joins the Main-Donau Kanal. Passenger boats and motorized barges began to appear. Soon, steep cliffs lined the valley sides, forcing the Radweg to cross from one bank to the other several times. At Essing, a badly- sagging bridge crosses the Canal. It was, I learned, the world's longest unsupported wooden bridge and you could walk across. Later, the Radweg crossed to the Canal's south bank on a dam. Minutes afterwards, I pedalled into Kelheim's famous Altstadt (Old Town) with its traditional Marktplatz.
Kelheim, where the Radweg meets the Danube, is a larger town. Here I had to stay at a hotel 3 kilometers from the center. But the Hotel Frischeisen, with shower and toilet in each room, was good value at only 22 Euros for a single and it had its own private brewery.
When I asked a lady in a bookshop in the Old Town for a Bikeline map, she replied in fluent American. A native of Kelheim, she had married an American and lived in Cincinatti for several years. After a divorce, she returned to Kelheim and a more rewarding lifestyle running a bookshop in this historic city. She also added that bike maps were sometimes in short supply and also that some shops sold maps that were out of date.
DAY 9: Kelheim to Regensburg, 54 kms. From Kelheim, Radfahrers soar across the Danube on a futuristic parabolic bridge built exclusively for bikers, skaters and pedestrians. Yes! The paved radweg sections are shared by in-line skaters, many of whom travel long distances at speeds as fast as cyclists.
"Tour de Baroque" signs then guide cyclists along an unpaved north shore Radweg to the village of Winzer. Here, peals of bells often ring out across the Danube, tolled by hand in the church belfry. Then the Radweg crosses a bridge to the south shore and winds through the woods into the health spa and biking center of Bad Abbach.
The word "Bad" in a German place name denotes a health resort where visitors either bathe (bad) in healing, thermal waters or in fresh, pure country air. Almost invariably, these health spas are full of inexpensive accommodations and make excellent overnight stops. Those with thermal waters also offer every type of hydrotherapy.
From Bad Abbach, the Radweg led on a partly-paved bike path into the larger city of Regensburg.
****Regensburg is famous for its Altstadt and the Radweg runs right through it. Here, the twin towers of the Dom (cathedral) loom over the many patrician houses that line the medieval streets. H. Ibis Castro Regina, RD.
DAY 10: Regensburg to Straubing, 54 kms. From Regensburg, "Tour de Baroque" signs led north across the Nibdung Bridge and out through the suburbs into flat farm fields. Here, my Bikeline map failed to show a recent change in Radweg routing. Instead, I let the "Tour de Baroque" signs guide me on a new short cut from Kiefenholz village straight into the fortress town of Worth.
On past Worth, with its hilltop castle, the Radweg passes Valhalla, a replica of the Parthenon built on a crag overlooking the Danube. Out here, even "Tour de Baroque" signs were few and most turns were marked by small signs with bicycle symbols. As I biked through several villages, I noticed that cars would yield to cyclists making turns.
The larger town of Straubing is known for its Marktplatz with soaring watchtower built in 1316, and its Rathaus surrounded by historic buildings. H. Donau Motel, RD but not in center.
DAY 11: Straubing to Vilshofen, 81 kms. Still following "Tour de Baroque" signs, I held a brisk pace today on an all-paved route that hugged the Danube's north bank. At the larger town of Deggendorf, the Radweg passes within 250 meters of a splendid medieval Marktplatz. Here again, except at the Tourist Office, few people spoke English.
At Niederalteich village, you can choose between the shorter north bank bike route or the longer one that follows the south bank. Most cyclists seemed to cross on a ferry to bike the south bank. But I decided to ride the north bank. Signs were few but I was able to navigate by the shape of the roads and the town of Winzer (another one). There were two sections on low- traffic roads plus a short ride across the Danube Bridge into Vilshofen.
Vilshofen is a pleasant, historic town and a popular overnight stop for Radfahrers. H. Bayerischerhof, RD, near bahnhof.
Rathaus Platz and Hotel Wilder
Mann in Passau
DAY 12: Vilshofen to Passau, 25 kms. For today's short ride, I returned to the north bank and followed the flat, partly-paved riverbank Radweg. There were two short sections on the shoulder of a quiet road. But there was no bike path on the south bank. Then at Maierhof, the Donau Radweg crosses to the Danube's south bank atop a huge power dam.
Approaching Passau, I encountered a white-haired lady riding a 3-speed touring bike and wearing a skirt. Hildegaard Drauschen, 78 years of age, is a dedicated cyclo-tourist and every year takes two bike touring vacations of four weeks each. Each night, she stays at a zimmer-frei or pension, never makes advance reservations, and in this super-safe country has never had any problems.
****Passau is one of the largest, most colorful and historic of the Danube towns and a popular weekend resort. Each night, in season, the city hosts up to a thousand Radfahrers. The Altstadt, filled with churches and medieval squares, straddles a peninsular where the Inn and Danube Rivers meet. At least 12 deluxe cruise boats were moored along the Danube quay while more churches and castles overlooked the town from nearby hills. H. Wilder Mann, RD (also good are the Deutscher Kaiser and Herdegen, both nearer the bahnhof).
Since it was still early, I spent the rest of the morning exploring Passau by bike. Then after noon, I rode for 25 kilometers on the ****Tauern Radweg, another great long distance bike path, to the town of Scharding in Austria, and back. The Tauern Radweg runs between wooded hills beside the River Inn and eventually reaches Salzburg, Zell am See and Krimml in Austria's Tyrol. It was marked by curious birdwatcher signs with a heron emblem. Other signs with a fish emblem marked a bike route to top fishing spots while butterfly emblems marked a bike route for butterfly enthusiasts..
Today, I also met two unique tandem tourists. The first was a family of 5: Dad, Mom and two boys --aged 9 and 10--all pedalling a 4-place tandem with the newest arrival in a baby seat, and all their gear in a Burley trailer. Each day, they told me, they covered at least 50 kilometers--and the kids were never too tired to pedal.
Then back in Passau, I saw a folding Santana tandem pedalled by Len and Susan Lodish of Philadelphia, the first American cyclists I encountered on this trip. The Lodishes were pedalling to raise funds to fight Lou Gehrig's disease and the farther they rode each day, the more money their donors had pledged to give. Despite carrying a PC and digital camera, they rode considerably farther than I did each day. Then each night, they e-mailed a report with pictures to their supporters.
From here on, the Danube--boosted by the waters of the Inn-- becomes a truly mighty river, the second largest in Europe.
DAY 13: Passau to Schloegen, 50 kms. Following "Donau Radweg" signs out of Passau, I crossed the Danube Bridge and headed east on the paved Radweg for 16 kilometers to the German town of Obernzell. From here on, the Danube wound between steep, wooded hills past a series of river panoramas.
A few kilometers farther on, near Jochenstein, the Radweg crosses into Austria. At this point, I found an information kiosk where a lady offers to make phone reservations at any riverside town in Upper Austria. For a small fee, she made reservations for the next 3 nights, namely at Schloegen, Steyregg and Grein. Beyond Grein, I would be cycling in Lower Austria, another province.
At Jochenstein, I saw many cyclists crossing on a dam to visit Engelhartszell village on the south bank. This involves carrying your bike and bags up and down a total of six flights of steep stairs. If you must visit Engelhartszell, cross instead by the bike ferry a few kilometers east. Better still, just keep going along the all-paved north bank Radweg.
****The Donauschlinge Region is where the Danube snakes through steep, forested mountains in a series of sharp and scenic serpentine bends. Here the silence is disturbed only by the muffled thud of deisel engines as cruise boats and barges navigate the twisting river.
After Engelhartszell, all bikers must ride on the north shore. At Schloegen, the north shore Radweg ends and all cyclists must cross on the famous Schloegen bike ferry and continue along the south shore. Since the ferry can carry only 40 cyclists at a time, it often takes half an hour or so to cross.
Right at the ferry landing is the 130-room Donauschlinge Hotel, a first class hostelry. Nearby are one or two pensions or gasthof. But most Radfahrers arriving after 15:00 hours stay here overnight. Unless you are prepared to cycle on for another 27 kilometers to Aschach, this is one place it's wise to have a reservation. H. Donauschlinge, RD--pricey!
DAY 14: Schloegen to Steyregg, 55 kms. For 27 kilometers from Schloegen, the paved Radweg follows every bend of the Danube through the scenic Donauschlinge country. Much of the way, bike paths exist on both sides of the Danube but most Radfahrers prefer the south bank. It's so unpopulated here that bridges are few and the only way to cross the river is by the small, wooden bike ferries.
From the Donauschlinge, I emerged into Aschach, a busy, small town with hotels, supermarket and Tourist Office. Here, the Radweg crossed on a bridge to the flat north bank. But more hills appeared and at times, road, railway, Radweg and river could barely squeeze through the gaps.
Finally, the large city of Linz appeared on the opposite bank and I passed a huge industrial area with oil refineries and smokestacks. Ten kilometers past this nightmarish sight, signs pointed to a paved bike path leading from the Radweg to Steyregg village.
For cyclists, Steyregg is starting point for the short train ride to Freistadt, a historic Austrian town. From here, it's a 50 kilometer bike ride through the Czech Republic to the ancient walled village of Ceske Krumlov, poised on a hilltop. Ceske Krumlov has a variety of accommodation with reservations available through its Tourist Office.
Although Steyregg lacks a Tourist Office, it has a small supermarket, a historic Schloss, and several hotels. H. Weissenwolf, RD.
DAY 15: Steyregg to Grein, 50 kms. Back on the Donau Radweg, I continued east along the north bank. Approaching Abwinden, be sure to fork left into St. Georgen and continue on towards Mauthausen. Approaching Mauthausen, a side road climbs to a granite quarry in the hills. Here the infamous Mauthausen concentration camp was located in World War II. Altogether, over 200,000 people died in the camp during the war. The camp is open to visitors and since it is only 5 kilometers from Mauthausen town, many visitors stay in Mauthausen overnight. Here also is a bahnhof with frequent bike-carrying trains to Grein and to Emmersdorf (near Melk) and on to Krems and Vienna.
From Mauthausen, the Radweg follows the north bank of the Danube through a series of villages into Grein. Approaching Grein, I was greeted by the imposing Greinburg Castle towering over the town. Grein is a popular overnight stop for cyclists and its Marktplatz was filled with Radfahrers enjoying a beer in the outdoor cafes. H. Goldenes Kreuz, RD.
![[Image]](pict0.jpg)
Melk's
wildly baroque Stift (Abbey) dominates this colorful Danube River
town.
DAY 16: Grein to Melk, 55 kms. Since the north bank bike route travels partly on the shoulder of a highway, most Radfahrers backtrack 3 kilometers from Grein and cross on a bridge to the Danube's south bank. From here, it's a scenic 27 kilometer ride past hills and river landscapes to Persenbeug where I crossed on a dam back to the north bank.
East from Persenbeug towards Melk, the Danube flows through the peaceful Nibelungengau region, a wine connoisseur's Mecca. Riverside towns like Marbach, Klein Pochlein and Persenbeug abound with wine taverns--some in old burgher houses--where the new heuriger wine is served along with hearty meals.
Near Pochlarn, a high bridge with a bike path spans the Danube. To reach the top of the bridge from the riverside bike path, engineers have built an amazing spiral bicycle ramp. Pedalling up an easy grade, cyclists must make three full circles as they spiral up to the level of the bridge. This is just another example of Austria's incredible pro-bike infrastructure.
Approaching Melk on the south bank, I spotted a young couple with Univega bikes and American gear. Tarp and Kay Wiseman, a U. S. Army couple based in Germany, spend all their off-time touring Europe by bike. They had already toured several European countries and planned to do France next.
It's fairly easy to spot Americans by their bikes, gear and clothes (though some could have been using rental bikes and panniers). Yet in 25 days of continuous cycling, I had met only two American couples cycling. Most Radfahrers were from Austria, Germany, Switzerland and Holland, though I met others from Italy, France, Bulgaria, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia and even Iceland. Most Americans aren't even aware of the wonderful bike-touring that exists in central Europe (described in the Bikelandia report on the home page menu). .
****Melk: Continuing on towards Melk, I saw an enormous yellow building with ornate golden towers looming above the town. This was Melk's spectacular and world-renowned Benedictine abbey. A ramp road lets cyclists ride up the hill to the abbey gate. But only pedestrians are permitted inside. Although the original Stift (abbey) was over 1,000 years old, it was destroyed by fire in 1703 and completely rebuilt. The abbey interior is wildly baroque and you can walk through on your own. H. Wachauer Hof, RD.
From Melk bahnhof, frequent trains run to Linz and to Vienna's West Bahnhof. Alternatively, you can cycle across the Danube to Emmersdorf, 5 kilometers away, and catch a train to Linz (via Valentin) or to Vienna's Franz-Josef Bahnhof. All carry bikes.
DAY 17: Melk to Krems, 40 kms. From Melk, I cycled over the high Danube bridge to Emmersdorf and soon entered the Wachau Wine Region.
****Austria's Wachau Region is an idyllic mix of apricot orchards and hills terraced with vineyards, all dotted with rugged, ruined castles, abbeys, churches and delightful vintner houses. The north bank Radweg takes cyclists through the heart of the Wachau and right down the main streets of such glorious villages as Spitz, Weissenkirchen and Durnstein, all known for their taverns serving the young heuriger wine.
Here the Danube, now a fast-flowing river nearly a kilometer wide, winds between steep, forested mountains. I stopped at Weissenkirchen to photograph the rakish church tower. Then came picturesque Durnstein where Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned in 1192. His cell was in the hilltop castle and it was here that the minstrel Blondel passed messages to the imprisoned crusader in the verses of his songs. I spent an hour cycling the narrow streets of this quaint village and exploring the massive baroque church.
On across low hills and through orchards overlooking the river, the Radweg entered Stein, the historic western suburb of Krems. A long pedestrian-only street then led through the center of Krems and past its towering Gothic church and cozy wine taverns. H. Schwarzes Rossl, RD.
DAY 18: Krems to Zwentendorf (30 kms) and return. Today, I biked from Krems along the flat south bank Donau Radweg to Zwentendorf, only 36 kilometers from Vienna.
Several hundred other cyclists shared the Radweg and among them I met a group of twelve Americans from Nebraska. All were riding rented Austrian bikes and I identified them only by their conversation. They had cycled from Passau and their leader rode this same route every year. The tour operator who arranged the trip carried their panniers in a van. Due to the stingy vacations granted by American employers, their trip lasted only a week or so. By contrast, most of the Europeans I met received 28 days of paid vacation annually.
After having lunch with the group at a jause station (bike path snack stop) I returned the same way to Krems for overnight. This made a total of 16 American cyclists that I met during 35 days of cycling.
DAY 19: Krems to Stift Gottweig, and return. Since I had an extra day leftover, I took a short out-and-back day ride from Krems to Stift Gottweig, a round trip of 20 kilometers.
****Stift Gottweig is a tremendous Benedictine Abbey. Poised atop a hill 200 meters in height, its onion-shaped towers are clearly visible from Krems. The bike route starts out on the south bank Donau Radweg, then branches off on a series of well- signed bike paths and country roads to the village of Furth. From there, it's a steep climb on a two-lane road to the top of the hill. The abbey is open daily and has a terrace restaurant overlooking Krems.
On returning to Krems, I left my bicycle at a large rental bike shop to be stored until my return. And so the trip ended. In 18 days of cycling from Wertheim to Zwentendorf along the main Radweg route, I covered approximately 900 kilometers. Seventeen additional days of cycling on side trips added an estimated 1,100 kilometers--a total of roughly 2,000 kilometers on a loaded touring bike carrying ten kilos of water and gear along what must be one of the world's longest, flat rides.
Next morning, I caught the Rad Tramper bike train from Krems, overnighted in Passau, and reached Frankfurt at 14:00 the following day.
Rather than duplicate the wealth of information, already on this website, I recommend going to our home page and clicking on our webpage HELPFUL WEBSITES FOR BICYCLE TOURING (or click HERE.)
Then scroll down to Austria and click on the links:
Austria National Tourist Office
Hungary National Tourist Office
Cycling Tours in Austria
Cycle Austria and Beyond
Austrian Railways Timetables (in German). I also noticed that railway ticket offices in Austria sold plastic bags for shipping bikes; perhaps these could be used for airline travel.
Andrea and Mikes' Trip to Austria and Bavaria
Then scroll down to Germany and look up these links:
Reisen mit Preisen--lists all accommodation in Germany
German Rail Timetables
Bicycle Germany--a goldmine of information on Hotels, Trains, Renting Bikes, Youth Hostels, German phrases, Tour Itineraries and much more The section on "Trains" covers everything you need to know to take your bike and yourself anywhere in Germany and also into Austria. Tip: remove all bags, pump, computer from bike before getting on train. Since bikes are often hung up by the front wheel, be sure to have a very strong front wheel.
Bikeline Map Series--to all German and Austrian Bike Paths
Next, go to the home page menu and click on the report "Through The Alps of France, Germany and Austria 2001." (Or click HERE).
Scroll down to the Practical Information and under "Bicycle Specifications" you will find a complete description of the bicycle I used in Germany-Austria, 2002. Also under "Practical Information" you will find many tips and advice on cycling in Austria.
River Boats. Riverboats carrying both passengers and bicycles operate daily during the bicycling season between Passau and Linz in both directions, calling en route at all principal towns and cycling and hotel centers. I also saw similar boats operating from Vienna upstream but can not confirm that they go as far as Linz.
When To Go
Never in July or August and book well in advance if you will need a room in Frankfurt between September 15-25 or October 7-15. During these trade fair periods, you could continue direct by train from Frankfurt Airport to touring centers like Wurzburg or Passau.
Best period is from September 7-October 21 when risk of floods or snow is slight and there is only one public holiday. Otherwise, May 1 through mid-June is OK but there are 4 public holidays with at least two 4-day weekends when rooms may be hard to find and most shops are closed from midday Saturday to Tuesday morning. In Germany-Austria , out of every 4 days, one is sunny, one partly-cloudy, one overcast, and one rainy. On my trip, most rain occurred at night after a late evening thunderstorm. During daytime, I had only two rainy days. Nonetheless, good raingear is essential.
Maps
These are the maps I actually used.
Altmuhltal Radweg from Wertheim to Kelheim. AKTIV Radfernwege Liebliches Taubertal Altmuhlweg, 1:75,000.
Romantische Strasse from Wertheim to Nordlingen. Bikeline Romantische Strasse, 1:75,000.
Donau Radweg from Kelheim to Passau. Bikeline Donau Radweg, Teil 1, 1:50,000.
Donau Radweg from Passau to Vienna. Bikeline Donau Radweg, Teil 2, 1:50,000, (English edition available).
A third Bikeline Donau Radweg Teil 3 map covers Vienna to Budapest. Most larger map series can be ordered on the Internet, see under "Helpful Websites for Bicycle Touring", listed above. Ordering them on the Net is a more dependable way to get the maps you need. Along the way, bike maps are sold at newsstands, bookstores, kiosks, bike shops and at some Tourist Offices. But each tends to sell only maps for their area. I could not find a Bikeline Donau Radweg, Teil 1 map until I actually reached the Danube at Kelheim. Incidentally, the AKTIV map series are good but not widely available. Be sure you are given the most up-to- date edition when you buy a map.
A good 3-D map of the Danube between Passau and Bratislava, showing all villages, river crossings, ferries and Tourist Offices is available at all Danube Tourist Offices, and very likely from the Austrian National Tourist Office in New York. It is called "Donau Radweg illustrativ informativ."
For overall planning, I also used Michelin Southeast Germany #420, 1:300,000 and Michelin Austria #926, 1:400,000. However, they are too heavy and bulky to carry on a bike.
Many excellent local maps are available free, or for a nominal price, from local Tourist Offices (every town of 3,000 population or more has one). Each town publishes a street map (Stadtplan) which may also show the location of all hotels, gasthof etc plus their rates and phone numbers.
There are two general types of bike maps.
1. Those that focus on a specific Bike Path such as the Donau Radweg and that may not show other radwegs. I recommend these for tours such as mine. These are usually published as map- guides with text describing the route. Since most text is in German, to save weight I tore out all pages that did not actually show maps. These map-guides also list phone numbers of Tourist Offices and most accommodations along the Radweg and these pages are worth keeping.
2. Regional maps that show all bike paths within the region they cover. These are useful for exploring a region but the smaller radwegs may not be as well maintained or as well signed. They generally do not have any text.
Hotel Guides
The difference between hotels, gasthof and pensions is rather one of size, facilities and price rather than any significant difference in the comfort of rooms. Most Radfahrers find that privatzimmer or zimmer-frei (they are the same) offer the best buys in overnight accommodation. All take reservations by phone though smaller places often don't answer during the day. Among the most useful hotel guides were:
Romantische Strasse. Hotels, Gasthof, Privatpensionen an der Romantische Strasse, available at most Romantische Strasse Tourist Offices or by email from <info@romantischestrasse.de>
*Donau Radweg. Donau-Gastlichkeit, a folder listing most accommodation along the Danube from Passau to the outskirts of Vienna. Available from most Danube Tourist Offices.
*Donau Radweg. Wachau-Nibeleungenau. Lists all Danube accommodation between Ybbs and Krems. Also available is a companion hotel guide to Vienna and an English language guide to Wachau villages. Try emailing <wachau@netway.at>
*May also be available from Austrian National Tourist Office in New York.
Bikeline and other map-guides (but not maps) list many of the larger hotels and gasthof that cater especially to Radfahrers. For hotels elsewhere in Germany, go to the "Reisen Mit Preisen" website, listed earlier under "Helpful Websites for Bicycle Touring." Almost all local Tourist Offices also have maps and lists of local accommodation and will phone and reserve a local room. The Austrian National Tourist Office in New York also has hotel lists for most parts of Austria. Campgrounds and hostels are generally included in hotel listings.
Romantische Strasse-Altmuhltal Radwegs, not to
scale
Donau Radweg, not to scale