Norm' Ford at Rowena Crest Lookout after cycling up from The Dalles
by Norman D. Ford
Paved all the way, Oregon's Historic Columbia River Highway (HCRH) takes cyclists on a breathtaking 75-mile ride through the Columbia River Gorge, a region so spectacular that in 1986, Congress declared it a National Scenic Area . Almost every mile of the way, you pedal past steep rocky cliffs and evergreen forests--some draped in green moss--and you pass next to five roadside waterfalls, one cascading down a sheer 620-feet drop.
Norm' Ford at Rowena Crest Lookout after cycling
up from The Dalles
Most of the ride is on low-traffic secondary roads, plus about ten miles on designated, car- free bikeways. And comfortable motels are spaced every 20-30 miles along the way. I can personally confirm that cycling the Columbia River Gorge is truly one of America's most awesome cycling experiences and its powerful scenery fully deserves five stars.
But don't expect this ride to be flat or car-free. It includes two superbly scenic--and fairly gentle climbs--each close to 750 -feet elevation gain. And to by-pass 14-miles of as yet uncompleted trail, cyclists are permitted to ride on the wide shoulder of Interstate-84.
The Best Strategy?
Stronger cyclists might ride the entire Columbia Gorge in a single day, especially with luggage carried in a support vehicle and with only brief stops for sightseeing. The average cyclo-tourist would probably prefer to spend two days cycling the Gorge, overnighting at a motel town somewhere close to half-way (usually Cascade Locks). And for those who prefer a leisurely ride with ample time en route for sightseeing, picture taking and perhaps a relaxed lunch break, 3 days might be the ideal time, with an overnight stop at Hood River and Cascade Locks.
Whatever you decide, the first step is to send for a wonderful free map-guide called the Columbia River Gorge Bike Map. Almost any Visitor Center at towns along the Gorge will mail you a free copy. But the best source is probably the bike-friendly City of Portland, Office of Transportation at <www.gettingaroundPortland.org> or phone 503-823-2925. (See this and other info sources at end of this report under "Where To Get More Info and Maps).
The Columbia River Gorge Bike Map is probably the best-written and most superbly- illustrated bike trail map we have ever seen--exactly what you might expect from America's best cycling city--and it's free for the asking.
Abbreviations used on this website you reading are: M = Motel and TH = Trailhead.
From a planning viewpoint, the 75-mile Gorge Bike Route breaks down like this:-
The Best Time To Cycle The Gorge? And In Which Direction?
July and August are the driest, warmest months but also the most heavily touristed-- meaning motels are often fully booked, rates are higher, and car traffic is at max. The off- season weeks from May 1 to June 15, and from Labor Day through October 10, are undoubtedly the best time for bicycle touring. During these weeks, there are many sunny days. But the closer you get to Portland, the greater the likelihood of rain. The rest of the year sees heavier rain, overcast skies and cooler temperatures. (For cycling in Oregon, I fitted my road bike with full-sized front and rear fenders (aka mudguards) and bikes with mudguards are a common sight in the Pacific Northwest.
Most important: try to cycle on weekdays, ideally Monday through Thursday. That's partly because most motels raise their rates on weekends (as well as in July and August). And at any time of year, Portland residents pour out of the city in their cars on weekends and holidays and it's often hard to find a parking spot near the roadside waterfalls or at Vista House.
Again, from what I saw, I suggest cycling the Gorge westbound rather than eastbound. That's primarily because, where you must ride on I-84, the westbound shoulder looked a lot wider and offered a superior view of the Gorge than the eastbound lane. In several places on the eastbound lane, retaining walls have been built next to the shoulder and for the length of each of these walls, the shoulder is narrow. It's true that westbound cyclists must push their bikes UP Eagle Creek Stairway rather than down, but I don't consider that a major drawback.
Too, except on designated Bikeways, don't look for Bike Route signs anywhere along the Gorge Bike Route. HCRH signs may be helpful. Otherwise, let your map be your guide.
Getting Back to The Dalles
To make a circular trip, you can return from Portland to The Dalles on State Highway 14 along the north, or Washington State, side of the gorge. The Columbia River Gorge Bike Map shows State 14 the whole way from Vancouver, WA (where it begins opposite Portland) to Murdoch (from where you can cycle across The Dalles Bridge back to The Dalles). En route, most of the road is two-lane with shoulders 3 feet or more in width. But between Home Valley and White Salmon--roughly 13 miles--shoulders may be limited and there are 7 short tunnels in the middle section. Illuminated signs activated by cyclists warn motorists when there are cyclists in a tunnel. However, the Columbia River Gorge Bike Map indicates that, eastbound, some 85 percent of the highway has shoulders that are 3-feet or wider. From the HCRH in Oregon, I could plainly see whole sections of WA State 14, and it was evident that many trucks used this route and there are a number of low hills. For a list of motels in Washington towns, go to <www.tourism.wa.gov/> and click on "Cities and Lodgings."
Beyond The Gorge
You can cycle two great bike routes on a single vacation by, first, riding the Hiawatha-Norpac-Coeur d'Alene-Centennial Trail system across Idaho to Spokane WA, then taking your bike by car on a six-hour drive to the Dalles OR, starting point of the Columbia Gorge Bike Route. It's a fast drive on uncrowded I-90/US395/I-82/I-84 and the last part takes you between the towering cliffs and sheer rock walls of the Upper Columbia Gorge. You'll find a detailed report on cycling the Hiawatha-Norpac-Coeur d'Alene-Centennial Trail System listed on our Home Page Menu.
A DAY-BY-DAY LOG OF THE TOUR
The trip log below is based on cycling the Gorge on a two-day schedule.
DAY ONE: The Dalles to Cascade Locks, 45 miles.
THE DALLES, pop 12,100, el 96 feet. Located on the south bank of the Columbia Gorge, the city was named Les Dalles by early French voyageurs, meaning a place where a shallow river flows swiftly between narrow cliffs. Today, the rapids lie submerged beneath the waters of the Dalles Dam. But the town, with its historic homes and churches, is well worth exploring by bike. I obtained a street map beforehand from <tdacc@gorge.net> and the city's website is <www.thedalleschamber.com>. The Visitor Center is just north of the supermarket in the center of town. I spent the night before starting on the tour at:-
M. Motel Six, 2500 W. Sixth St., 541-296-1191. Interior corridor, located on Bike Route.
Also here are a Comfort Inn, Super 8, Best Western and the Cousins Country Inn Motels, all with higher rates than the Motel Six.
From the Motel Six, I cycled west along Sixth St., on a painted bike lane for a mile to the start of the Historic Columbia River Highway. Here the bike lane ended and the shoulderless two-lane road began a gradual climb above the gorge. Far below, I watched the trucks thunder along I-84 at the edge of the river. Then came the hamlet of Rowena and I shifted into my small chainring to commence the climb up the long, sweeping curves of the Rowena Loops.
The long, sweeping curves make cycling up US30 to
the Rowena Crest a fairly gentle climb
Cycling up the gentle grade revealed awesome panoramas of the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. From the Rowena Crest Viewpoint at the top of the climb, I could see 30 miles up the gorge to the east. Here I met two middle-aged couples on recumbent tandems. Like most of the 25 other cyclists I met today, they were just out for the day and only 5 planned to cycle the length of the gorge.
The road then dropped in a series of wide bends down to the village of Mosier, and I was back at river level. Almost immediately, I was pedaling uphill again on a short spur road to the TH of the Columbia Gorge HCRH Bikeway, east section, with parking lot and toilet. Here began the most magnificent stretch of car-free bike trail I have ever seen. Fifteen-to-eighteen feet wide and smoothly paved, it was wide enough for six cyclists to ride abreast.
It was easy pedaling as the trail wound up a hillside , through woods ablaze with fall colors, to the Mosier Twin Tunnels. These two short tunnels and a snow shed form a single continuous tunnel and there's ample light for cycling through. The trail led on for 3 more miles through hilltop forests with stupendous views of the Washington shore across the River. Looking almost straight down I could see towboats pushing strings of barges along the Columbia.
Cycling high above the Columbia Gorge on a quiet
section of the HCRH
The Bikeway ended at Senator Mark O. Hatfield West TH, also with parking and toilet. Then I coasted down a series of multi-imposed switchbacks for a mile into the town of Hood River.
HOOD RIVER, pop 6,000, el 154 feet. The strong winds that blow through the gorge have made Hood River a popular windsurfing center. While I didn't meet any strong winds today, encountering a strong headwind is always a possibility. Cycling through town on Oak Street takes you past a picturesque shopping area lined by cafes, restaurants, surfing shops and boutiques.
M. Love's Riverview Lodge, 1505 Oak St., 541-386-8719. Quiet, central on Main Street with frig and microwaves in rooms, some at door parking, average rates.
Also here is Vagabond Lodge at north side of I-90, Exit 62 with at-door parking and reasonable rates; and close by is the Meredith Gorge Motel, one story, at-door parking, 541- 386-1515. Higher priced are a Best Western and Comfort Suites.
From Hood River's old-fashioned downtown, I cycled west on Oak Street--the main street-- to Exit 62 and on to the westbound ramp of I-84.
Except at bridges, most of I-84's shoulder is ten feet wide and keeps you well away from passing trucks. However, between Exit 62 and Ruthton Point Exit; and between Exit 53 and Exit 51--a total distance of 3.25 miles--the westbound shoulder is more limited in width. Actually, I was making such good time here that I hardly noticed the narrower shoulder.
At Ruthton Point Exit I made a brief stop to visit the scenic viewpoint. Cycling at the river's edge yielded a fresh perspective of the Gorge and its massive cliffs, some a sheer 2,000 feet high. Across on the Washington side, I could also clearly see trucks passing through a series of five short but narrow tunnels on State Road 14.
By comparison, I-84 provides a smooth, flat and fast ride all the way to Exit 51. Here, I biked under the Interstate and headed west on shoulderless Wyeth Bench Road. Later, this road became Frontage Road. Then it crosses I-84 on a narrow, steel bridge and becomes Forest Lane (with a 4-foot shoulder). Approaching Cascade Locks, Forest Lane leads into Wa-Na-Pa Street , the town's main street. For the entire 8 miles from Exit 51, I had been cycling between forested hillsides and the Columbia River.
CASCADE LOCKS, pop 1,115, el 102'. Nowadays dwarfed by the huge Bridge of the Gods which spans the Columbia, this small community was formerly the site of a series of locks which were submerged in 1938 by the waters of Bonneville Dam. At 355 Wa-Na-Pa Street is the Port of Cascade Locks and Marine Park, with a historic waterfront lock and Visitor Center, open 10-5 daily. For 50 cents each way, cyclists can ride across the Bridge of the Gods to the Washington side.
M. Gorge Center Motel, in center on south side of Wa-Na-Pa Street, 541-374-0001; two-story, at-door parking downstairs. Formerly the Econo-Inn, probably best bet for cyclists.
M. Bridge of the Gods Motel, 630 Wa-Na-Pa Street, 541-374-8628.
Both above motels are on the Bike Route close to the massive Bridge of the Gods. Also here is a Best Western.
DAY TWO: Cascade Locks to Troutdale, 30 miles.
At the west end of Cascade Locks, immediately below the towering Bridge of the Gods, I found the TH for the HCRH Bikeway, west section. This bike path is narrower than the east section near Hood River but is still 9-12 feet wide. From Cascade Locks, it climbs gradually through a damp, green forest of tall cathedral pines. Soon, the Bikeway crosses below the Interstate through a tunnel to the south side.
A mile farther on, the Bikeway passes Eagle Creek Recreation Area and I cycled beside a steep rock face to Eagle Creek Stairway. These flights of stairs take cyclists up to a higher level where the Bikeway continues over the top of the Toothrock Tunnel. This tunnel takes the eastbound lanes of I-84 under the towering rocky mass of Wauna Point. The tunnel is closed to bikes because of its narrow, shoulderless road. Instead, you must push your bike up beside the stairs in a special concrete trough made to fit bicycle wheels. These are common in Europe. And if you have any heavy panniers or other bike bags, I recommend removing them before pushing your bike up the steps.
Masses of fern bordered the Bikeway above the stairs and both trees and walls were covered in thick, green moss. For this is the beginning of the Oregon Rain Forest, where it rains almost daily for 8 months of the year. Here, I stopped at a moss-draped wall to photograph the stunning panoramas of Bonneville Dam and Locks spread out below.
Looking out at Bonneville Dam and Locks over a
moss-draped wall beside the HCRH Bikeway near Wauna Point
A mile beyond, I left the Bikeway at Toothrock TH (parking lot, toilets) and dropped down a short, steep road to Exit 40 on I-84. Here, a sign directed me into Bonneville Lock and Dam. This huge complex spans the full 3,460-feet width of the Columbia Gorge. You can cycle to Bradford Island Visitor Center where, from an underwater viewing room, you can view salmon and sturgeon swimming up a fish ladder. You can also visit a lock and the fish hatchery. Some of the cycling was along a dock with rail lines sunk flush with the surface, a real hazard for cyclists. It's all free and well worth seeing and open daily from 9-5.
Back on I-84, I cycled 3 miles on the westbound shoulder and exited at Exit 37. Here, I left the Interstate, crossed to the south side, and began cycling west on the HCRH through the hamlets of Warrendale and Dodson. In the next ten miles, this shoulderless road takes cyclists past five of Oregon's most beautiful waterfalls. First came Horseshoe Falls, beside the road, then spectacular Multnomah Falls plunging a sheer 620 feet from the sheer cliffs above. I had to get off, lock my bike to an iron railing, and walk to the falls. Here, I found a gift shop, restaurant, toilets and a lodge.
There's also a large parking lot and on weekends, it's often filled with tourist cars. Yes, there is car traffic along Waterfall Road (my name for it) but rarely anything larger than a small RV or camper. The average speed is under 40 m.p.h., and cyclists are a common sight. Next comes Wahkeen Falls then mist-shrouded Bridal Veil Falls and finally La Tourelle Falls, all close to or right next to the road. After Bridal Veil Falls, most of the cars disappeared, having left the Waterfall Road via Exit 28 on I-84. Once past LaTourelle Falls, the second major climb of the HCRH began. Winding steadily uphill in a series of switchbacks and loops, the road reached the top at Crown Point.
It's a climb of about 750 feet (el gain) and poised atop Crown Point is Vista House, a circular, glass-sided building with panoramic views of the Gorge in all directions. In its basement are a snack bar, gift shop and toilets. Immediately below Vista House is the much-photographed wall with lamposts and the 30-mile view of the Gorge to the east.
From Vista House, the two-lane road winds down the hillsides towards Portland. About a mile down from Vista House, a short side road leads north to Chanticleer Point (aka Portland Women's Forum State Scenic Viewpoint), the most photographed view of the gorge.
Back on the HCRH, the grade eased to a more gentle descent and the shoulders were wide enough to ride on. Dropping gradually, I coasted on down through Corbett and Springdale (small market) and into the scenic Sandy River Valley. The last few miles wound through tall trees beside the Sandy River. Then just before reaching the Interstate, I turned left across the river and entered Troutdale on the East Columbia River Highway.
TROUTDALE, pop 14,000, el 73 feet. From here on, I recommend following the bike route map on Page 5 of the Columbia River Gorge Bike Map. It took me the entire way to the Motel Six on wide bicycle lanes painted on the shoulder of every street. The first few blocks led through Troutdale's old-fashioned shopping area, full of antique shops and art galleries. After that, just remember to go north under the Interstate, west on Frontage Road, and south again on Marine Drive and you'll see a large sign pointing to the Motel Six.
M. Motel Six Portland-Troutdale, 1610 Northwest Frontage Road, 503-665-2244, two-story with at-door parking; good value, especially off-season. This motel can serve as an inexpensive base for exploring Portland by bicycle on the city's extensive network of bikeways and bike routes (see listings of Portland Bicycling Maps under "Where to Get more Information and Maps" below). Nearby is an Inn America and a Phenix Inn Suites, with higher rates and interior corridors that are inconvenient for cyclists.
Where To Get More Information and Maps
www.traveloregon.com/ Click on "Search on Lodgings Listing" for list of lodgings in each Oregon town.
www.gettingaroundPortland.com/ Website of the City of Portland, Office of Transportation. This source provides a wealth of bicycling maps and information and has recently added a Bicycle Touring resource with info on touring in and around Portland, including the Oregon Coast Bike Route and the Columbia River Gorge. Among the free maps and info available are:-
The Columbia River Gorge Bike Map
The Oregon Coast Bike Route
The Oregon Bicycling Map-Guide
Portland by Bicycle--A Portland Bicycle Commuter Map
Detailed Bike Maps for Each Area of Portland
A Tri-Met Map to streetcar, bus and rail lines (some carry bikes)
Maps of several scenic bike routes from Portland (Hillsboro--which is at the west end of the Max light rail line) linking to the Oregon Coast Bike Route : 1) Portland to Astoria via Vernonia; 2) Portland to Manzanita; 3) Portland to Three Capes via Nestucca River--a quiet and very beautiful route.
Headed by Jeff Smith, a keen cyclist, the new touring resource has a wealth of info available on a growing number of bikeways, some of which may not be on the State Bicycle Map Guide.
www.adventurecycling.org/ The Adventure Cycling organization has available for sale two excellent maps covering the Oregon Coast Bike Route.
There are plenty of overnight motel stops along the Oregon Coast Bike Route, and great scenery, but some cyclists report that the trip would be more enjoyable without the logging trucks and obscene-sized RVs.