Norwest

TOURING  THE  NORTHWEST: ON

THE  HIAWATHA-NORPAC-COEUR

d'ALENE -CENTENNIAL  TRAILS, 2005

By Norman D. Ford

Up in the Northwest, a series of four car-free bike trails linked together form America's newest, and one of its most rewarding, bicycle tours.


The Idaho Centennial Trail runs for miles beside mountain-rimmed Lake Coeur d'Alene

The first trail, the Route of the Hiawatha, takes you on a wildly scenic ride through Idaho's awesome Bitteroot Mountains on the former roadbed of the Milwaukee Road. Then you cross Lookout Pass on a former stretch of the Northern Pacific Railroad. Next comes a 66-mile ride through a wilderness of mountains, wetlands, rivers and lakes on an all-paved section of the former Union Pacific Railroad. And finally, another all-paved 62-mile Millenium Legacy Trail takes you beside beautiful Lake Coeur d'Alene and along a cascading river through Washington State to Spokane.

Incredibly, the entire 160-mile trip is almost all downhill or flat. It's almost entirely free of motorized vehicles. 80 percent of the route is paved--the rest hard-packed dirt. And you can pedal it all in 4 easy days with every night at a comfortable motel or guest house.

Interested? Then here are the basic facts you should know.

Except for a few miles of low-traffic connecting roads, all of the ride is made on a series of 3 former railroad beds converted into bike trails, and a constructed trail, on almost all of which motor vehicles are banned. The first 3 trails just about connect end-to-end to form a continuous 100-mile bike ride. You then use your support vehicle for a 45-mile highway shuttle to bridge the gap to the fourth and final trail (the Centennial) that leads for 62 miles across both Idaho and Washington into Spokane.

These Are The Trails You Will Ride--And Your Overnight Accommodation.

You can send for free trail maps to the websites listed under "Where to Get Trail Maps and Information" at the end of this report.


Red lines indicate bike trails.  Blue lines indicate bus or car shuttle routes.  1.  Hiawatha Trail.  2. Norpac Trail.  3.  Coeur d'Alene Trail.  4.  Centennial Trail.

The Route Of The Hiawatha : takes cyclists over a 15-mile stretch of the old Milwaukee Road through the towering Bitteroot Mountains via a series of 9 cavernous tunnels and 7 high, steel trestles. Because it was considered one of the most scenic stretches of railroad in America, it became the route of the Hiawatha scenic train from which passengers could enjoy the exciting vistas through panoramic windows.

The Hiawatha stopped running in 1977 when the railroad went bankrupt. Today, however, you can enjoy this same scenic adventure on a bicycle. The Hiawatha railbed starts at East Portal, ID where you begin by traversing the long, straight St. Paul Pass-Taft Tunnel (1.7 miles in length) to emerge at the Roland Trailhead (TH). On a gentle 2 percent grade, you wind on down a deep pineclad gorge--and through 8 more tunnels-- to Pearson TH, where the Hiawatha bike path currently ends. You're now 1,000 feet in elevation below East Portal. So from Pearson, a shuttle bus (fare $9) carries cyclists back uphill to Roland TH and you cycle back to East Portal through the same long 1.7 mile tunnel . Thus the Hiawatha is actually a circle trip.


One of 7 high, steel trestles that cyclists ride across on the Hiawatha Trail

From East Portal, it's two more miles of easy roller-coaster cycling on the narrow, winding, smooth-dirt surface of Rainy Creek Forest Road #506 out to Taft Exit 5 on Interstate 90. At Taft Exit 5, FR506 connects with the railbed of the former Northern Pacific Line described below--and in which we explain about the Hiawatha concessionaire.

The Northern Pacific (Norpac) Trail: begins at Taft Exit 5 on I-90 and runs west for 12 miles on a hard-packed dirt roadbed with a thin scattering of gravel. Although classed as a Multi-Use Trail on which motorized vehicles are permitted, chances of meeting any significant traffic are usually slim . It first climbs for six miles (through Montana) up a gradual 2 percent grade on the south side of I-90--and through a 400-foot curved tunnel--to pass in front of Lookout Pass Ski Lodge.

Lookout Pass Ski Lodge is located at 4,727 feet on the Idaho-Montana border at Exit Zero on I-90. It consists of a cafe and rental bike shop and is the only source of food or drink on both the Hiawatha and Norpac Trails. Both the Lodge and Hiawatha Trail are operated by the same concessionaire. Because of the possibility of accidents in the Hiawatha tunnels, you must first check in at the Lodge to buy a one-day trail permit ($8) and at the bike rental shop to rent a bicycle headlight (plus helmet and bike if you need one ) which must be returned here the same day.

The fee pays for marshals who patrol the Hiawatha each day. During the cycling season, the cafe opens at 8 am and the bike shop at 8:30 daily. Even if you have your own bike and helmet, you must have a powerful flashlight before entering the Hiawatha. More info on the Lodge and Hiawatha is available by phoning 208-744-1301 or, better, visiting the website <www.ridethehiawatha.com>.


Wide vistas of the Bitteroot Mountains greet cyclists headed downhill on the Norpac Trail towards Mullen

From the Lodge, the Norpac continues down the west side of Lookout Pass for six miles to its terminal trailhead. Occasional Norpac signs mark the route. From the trailhead, you cycle half-a-mile north down a narrow paved road, turn left on to a wider paved road, and join yet another wider paved road--all unmarked--that take you down into the mining village of Mullen. The roads total about 2.5 miles and have little traffic. In Mullen is a convenience store, cafe and a small motel.

M. Lookout Motel, on Mullen Main Street at the Coeur d'Alene Trail TH. Inexpensive, rustic, no-phones, cable, at-door parking, 208-744-1601. No overnight accommodation exists on the trip east of here.

The Coeur d'Alene Trail: runs for 66 miles from the Lookout Motel in Mullen through the Silver Valley to the small cities of Wallace and Kellogg and on to picturesque Harrison, a small town beside Lake Coeur d'Alene. Ten feet wide, the entire trail is paved with smooth blacktop. It runs atop the railbed of the former Union Pacific Railroad.

All 3 of these trailside towns has overnight accommodation and each is a popular overnight stop for cyclists.

In Wallace is the:-

M. Stardust Motel, 410 Pine St (208-752-1213) is downtown and two-story with at- or near-door parking, large comfortable rooms, and medium rates (but did not have cable TV during my September 2005 visit) . It's probably Wallace's best bet for cyclists. Also here are the more expensive Wallace Inn, a Super-8 motel and several hotels.

From Wallace, it's another ten miles down the bike path to Kellogg, main center of the rich Silver Valley mining region. Here is the:-

M. Trail Motel, one-fourth mile north of the bike trail at 206 West Cameron in Kellogg (208-784-1161), a modern two-story motel with at-door parking and VERY affordable rates, a real bargain with refrigerators and microwaves, marred only by its connecting doors not being completely soundproof. Other Kellogg motels are a Super-8 and the Silverton Motor Inn. On the trail, near Kellogg's Old Depot, is Excelsior Cycles with rentals and fast repair service.

Kellogg is the most popular overnight stop because it's just 50 flat miles to Harrison, the next town with accommodation--and there's nowhere else to stay in between. Along the trail are 20 developed Trailheads and 17 Wayside Stops, about half with picnic tables and some with toilets. Not quite half way to Harrison are two trailside restaurants, both serving all 3 meals daily: the Snakepit Restaurant at Enaville, and the Old Mission Restaurant at Cataldo.

In the charming town of Harrison, you'll find the Pedal-Pusher's Bike Shop with Gary Fisher rentals and a repair service plus a shuttle bus to Kellogg and a website at <www.bikenorthidaho.com>. Slated to become a key overnight stop for cyclists, Harrison had only two accommodations during my late-September 2005 visit. They were:-

Osprey Inn, 134 Frederick St., (208-689-9502, <www.ospreyinn.com>), a small, comfortable guest house with only 5 rooms, fairly expensive with breakfast included.

Lakeshore Lodge, a modern 16-unit lakeside motel which should be open by now. Contact Pedal-Pusher for phone number, or news of other lodgings.

From Harrison, the bike trail hugs the shore of Lake Coeur d'Alene to the historic Chatcolet Swing Bridge which it crosses to Heyburn State Park. The trail then winds up Plummer Canyon to the Plummer Trailhead, 15 miles from Harrison. Here it ends near US95 which leads north into Coeur d'Alene City. Near the Trailhead is the Hiway Motel (208-686-1310 or 1205) with special rates for cyclists.

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To connect with the next trail, the Centennial, you must use your support vehicle to shuttle your bikes and yourselves from Harrison to Higgens Point, where the Centennial Trail begins. From Harrison, most cyclists drive north on the narrow but scenic Route 97 which winds along the shore of Lake Coeur d'Alene to connect with I-90 at Exit 22. Head west on I-90 for 7 miles to Exit 15. From here, it's just six miles on Lake Shore Drive to Higgens Point. Allow about two hours for this 45-mile trip.

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The Centennial Trail: runs for 62 miles, from Higgens Point ID past the city of Coeur d'Alene and on through Idaho and Washington to Spokane. Part may be an old railbed but much appears to have been built as part of the Millenium Trails Project. The trail itself is 10 feet wide and paved with smooth blacktop; 24 miles is in Idaho and 38 miles in Washington. But several short sections of the Idaho trail are unfinished and cyclists must pedal on bike lane detours painted on the sides of quiet, residential streets. Comparatively new, parts of the trail run next to I-90. Both states plan to re-route these noisy sections as well as to re- route the trail through the city of Spokane. However, most of the trail is scenic and well worth riding.

The trail also extends some 9 miles west of Spokane. You can bike this section if you like but it is not included in our mileages here.

Starting from Higgens Point, the trail heads west for 11 mostly scenic miles in a mix of lakeshore beach parks and quiet streets to the Ironwood-Selstice Way Park TH near the center of the city of Coeur d'Alene. Near here is:-

M. Motel Six , 416 Appleway Ave., Coeur d'Alene (208-664-6600). Two stories with at- door parking, inexpensive and good value. Getting here from the TH involves crossing several busy 4-lane streets and we recommend using your support vehicle instead of cycling. Nearby are a Days Inn and a La Quinta Motel.

From Coeur d'Alene, the trail passes through the town of Post Falls and heads west between I-90 and the Spokane River. Two miles from the state line (at I-90, Exit 2) the plush but bike-friendly Sleep Inn is located next to the bike trail with another pricey motel, the Riverbend Inn, nearby. Then the Centennial Trail crosses the state line into Washington and loops under I-90 to begin its 38-mile route to Spokane. Washington's Centennial Trail is paved all the way, has no detours, and provides cyclists with a beautiful ride along the south bank of the swiftly-flowing Spokane River.

The trail ends on the outskirts of Spokane and the rest of the way you cycle on bike lanes painted on the sides of quieter city streets. Described later in "A Day-by-Day Log of the Trip" is a backroads route you can ride from the Centennial Trail to the Motel Six East.

M. Motel Six East, 1919 N. Hutchinson Rd (509-926-5399). Two-stories with interior corridor and rates $5 higher than at older Motel Sixes.

The Best Cycling Strategy

To cycle the 160-miles from Lookout Pass Ski Lodge to Spokane in 4 days calls for regarding all 4 trails as a single continuous bicycle tour. To complete the ride in 4 days without a significant uphill climb also assumes that you have one (or more) support vehicles capable of carrying all bikes and riders. Since nearly every cyclist drives to the area in a vehicle which also carries the bikes, they already have a support vehicle. Perhaps one group member, a non-cyclist, is willing to drive all the way during the tour. If not, driving can be shared among the cyclists. If you're alone, driving your own car, you can still make the trip but it's likely to take 7 or 8 days instead of just 4.

All this also assumes you have your own bike fully equipped with helmet, tools, pump, water bottles, spare tubes, raingear etc and that you do NOT plan to rent a bike at the Ski Lodge. Our 4-day tour is not suited for cycling on a rented bike.

The trails themselves, with their overnight accommodation plus requirements for a rental light and permit for the Hiawatha Trail, have already been described. It is also assumed that you arrived the previous evening and that you stayed overnight at Wallace or Mullen. Given that you are one of a group of cyclists with your own bike in a support vehicle, here is the strategy we suggest.

Decide beforehand on the date of the first day of your ride. That's because the Hiawatha is open only from around May 21 to October 2nd. During the spring season from roughly May 21 to June 13, the Hiawatha shuttle bus runs only on Saturdays and Sundays. During the main summer season, it runs daily from around June 13 to after Labor Day. But from Labor Day to around October 2nd, it runs only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. During off-seasons, there are 4 daily trips at around 11, 2, 3 and 4 p.m., possibly more in summer. During the spring or fall seasons, your first day of cycling should coincide with one of these weekend days. (Check on current shuttle bus schedules as those just quoted may change.)

The best time to ride this tour is probably during the spring or fall off-seasons, when the weather is cooler and there are fewer tourists to compete for rooms.

Whenever you cycle, however, it's smart to reserve the space you require at the accommodation where you plan to spend each night. Based on these requirements, we suggest the following strategy:-

FIRST DAY: Load up the bikes and cyclists and drive up I-90 to Lookout Pass Ski Lodge to arrive promptly at 8:30 a.m. Get your trail permits, then rent any lights or other gear you need at the bike rental shop. This is a busy day so avoid arriving late and keep moving.

As soon as possible, those cycling then ride east down the Norpac Trail to Taft Exit 5 where they turn right on Rainy Creek Forest Road #506 to East Portal TH, a total distance of 8 miles, either all downhill or mostly level. Meanwhile, the driver takes the support vehicle east on I-90, exits at Taft Exit 5, and drives on FR506 to East Portal.

Park your vehicle on the large lot at East Portal. The Hiawatha starts here and your driver may also cycle the entire Hiawatha ride. Immediately, you enter the 1.7 mile-long Taft Tunnel and you ride downhill through the remaining 8 tunnels to Pearson TH where the Hiawatha Trail ends. From Pearson TH, your entire group and their bikes take the shuttle bus back up to Roland TH and they cycle (or walk) back through the long tunnel to the East Portal TH where their vehicle is parked.

Cyclists and driver then travel in their vehicle back to Taft Exit 5 and drive west 5 miles on I-90 to Lookout Pass Ski Lodge at Exit 0. Here the cyclists get out and bike down the western section of the Norpac Trail--and via 3 short connecting roads--into Mullen.

It's best, if you can, to aim for an overnight stop at Kellogg. From Mullen, it's an easy, gradual-downhill ride of 16 miles past Wallace to Kellogg on the all-paved Coeur d'Alene Trail. Meanwhile, the driver takes your vehicle down I-90 to your Kellogg motel. En route, he/she might stop at Mullen and change drivers.

Cycling Hiawatha Off-Season on Weekdays

While the shuttle bus operates during off-seasons only on weekends and holidays, the Hiawatha Trail is open to cyclists every day throughout the cycling season. You still need a permit and rental light, of course. But on weekdays--or at any time, for that matter--many cyclists use their support vehicle in place of the shuttle bus. Here's how.

FIRST DAY :  After arriving at East Portal (from the Ski Lodge), all cyclists with their bikes, get into their vehicle and the driver takes it over Roland Pass (5,180 feet) to Roland TH. This by- passes the 1.7 mile-long Taft Tunnel. Granted, it's a 25-minute ride on smooth but unpaved FR506 over a series of multi-imposed hairpin bends but many cyclists prefer the drive to traversing the long, black tunnel.

At Roland TH, bikes and cyclists get off while the driver takes the vehicle on down the Hiawatha through Tunnel 21 to Moss Point Exit. This two-mile Trail section is actually classified as Multi-Use and it's used by the shuttle bus as well as by some cyclists' support vehicles. But traffic is light and speeds slow. From Moss Point Exit, your driver can continue on down FR506 and connecting Forest Roads to Pearson TH.

Meanwhile, the cyclists ride down the Hiawatha Trail to Pearson TH. Here they load their bikes back into the vehicle and are driven the same way back to East Portal and Taft Exit 5 and so back up I-90 to Lookout Pass Ski Lodge. It might also be mentioned that, even on weekends, quite a few cyclists prefer to by-pass the Taft Tunnel by driving over Roland Pass to Roland TH, where their Hiawatha ride begins and ends. Also worth mentioning is that the shuttle bus service and schedules may change in future.

SECOND DAY: This is just a straight ride on the Coeur d'Alene Trail from Kellogg to Harrison. Most Trailheads en route can be accessed from either I-90 or State Road 3 so you might arrange to change drivers once or more often. In the event you cannot find overnight lodging in Harrison, consider driving everyone from Harrison to Coeur d'Alene and staying overnight at the Motel Six. Or you might consider cycling on to the Hiway Motel at Plummer, 15 miles distant.

THIRD DAY : Assuming you stayed at Harrison the previous night, I suggest cycling next morning along the lakeside Coeur d'Alene Trail and across Chatcolet Swing Bridge to Heyburn State Park and back to Harrison, a ride of 15 miles. Then drive from Harrison via State 97 and I- 90 to Exit 15 and take Lake Shore Drive to Higgens Point, location of the ID Centennial Trail TH. Cyclists then ride this trail to the Ironwood-Selstice Way Park TH in Coeur d'Alene where the vehicle driver meets them and takes them to the nearby Motel 6.

Another option would be to cycle from Harrison to Plummer, while the vehicle is driven there. Cyclists and bikes are then driven on US95 to Coeur d'Alene and east on Lakeshore Drive to Higgens Point TH.

FOURTH DAY: Apart from a couple of detours clearly marked on the map, today's ride is a generally-level and uncomplicated trip of 51 miles on the Centennial Trail from Coeur d'Alene ID to Spokane WA.


Wide and smoothly paved, the Centennial Trail provides miles of scenic cycling beside the Spokane River

A DAY-BY- DAY LOG OF THE TRIP

Most cyclists will complete this tour in 4 days. Because I was alone, however, it took me 8 days to cover exactly the same ground. So I have written up this log as though I did it in 4 days. Believe me, I cycled every inch of the same route that most of you will cover in 4 days. And like many readers will do, I spent the evening of arrival at the Stardust Motel in Wallace.

A larger mining center with a dozen blocks of 19th century brick buildings, Wallace has an interesting Norpac Railroad Museum, a supermarket, and a TruValue store which sells powerful flashlights if you need a back-up light for negotiating the Hiawatha tunnels. I bought one and if you're over 50 (or even under), I recommend carrying an extra light in addition to the headlight you will rent.

Early the following morning I drove up I-90 to Lookout Pass Ski Lodge, arriving there exactly as the permit office and bike rental shop opened at 8:30.

DAY ONE:   Lookout Pass around Hiawatha to Kellogg, 47 miles.  With trail permit in pocket and a powerful back-up flashlight in my rucksack, I mounted my Marin road bike outside Lookout Pass Ski Lodge and headed east for the six mile run down the Norpac Trail to Taft Exit 5. Though this is a wonderfully scenic trail, with grand views of tall mountain peaks and emerald forests, I did not meet another cyclist. I don't know why because pedaling down the two-percent grade on the hard-packed dirt surface was sheer joy (despite a thin scattering of small gravel).

About half way along I passed through a curved 400-foot tunnel which I walked through because of the many bumps. And at Taft Exit 5, I swung right for a two-mile ride on smooth but unpaved Forest Road 506 to East Portal TH, starting point of the Hiawatha Trail. Cycling--or mostly walking briskly--through the straight and level 1.7 mile long Taft Tunnel was something I could have done without (as was the return trip in mid-afternoon). And I would recommend those who can do it, to drive over Roland Pass to Roland TH instead of cycling through the tunnel.

Roland TH is 4,150 feet in elevation and from here the trail drops a steady 75 feet per mile for 13 miles to end at Pearson TH at 3,180 feet. Consisting of hard-packed dirt with a thin scattering of gravel, I found both the Hiawatha and Norpac Trails easy to ride on my 700 x 32 road bike tires. But many of the cyclists riding down the Hiawatha were inexperienced--riding rental mountain bikes with fat tires--and were often unfamiliar with derailleur gears. Even so, everyone was obviously enjoying the experience.

For the scenery is breathtaking as the trail winds past the towering Bitteroot peaks, traversing a rugged mountain wilderness without water or other facilities beyond a few trailhead toilets. If you forgot to buy a permit, you can buy it from one from the trail marshals who pass regularly in pick-up trucks. They also have rental lights. But I strongly advise against starting down the Hiawatha without at least one powerful flashlight per person. And don't forget to remove your sunglasses as you enter each tunnel.

In succession, you pass through these tunnels:-

#20: the 8,771-feet long Taft Tunnel.

#21: 791 feet, it's one way at a time for vehicles passing through on FR506.

#22: 1,516 feet, a long tunnel but it's straight, not curved as shown on maps, and both ends are clearly in view throughout.

#24: is a shorter 377 feet.

#25: 966 feet long and sharply curved, this is the blackest tunnel with both ends out of sight in the middle. It exits at Adair TH, el 3,707 feet and accessible to cars by forest road.

#26: is 683 feet.

#27: is 470 feet and curved.

#28: is a short 178 feet.

#29: at 217 feet, is also short.

Pearson TH comes next, at 3,180 feet. And between the various tunnels, 7 high steel trestles provide more spectacular vistas. From Pearson TH, I caught the first shuttle bus of the day, a yellow converted school bus which ground its way up the steeply tilted FR506 and through tunnel #21 back to Roland TH. Then came a return trip by bike through Taft Tunnel to East Portal, and a drive by support vehicle out to I-90 and Lookout Pass Ski Lodge (where I returned the headlight I had rented).

By now, it was 2:30 in the afternoon and ahead lay a 25-mile, all downhill ride through Mullen and Wallace and on to Kellogg's Trail Motel for overnight. Grand views of tall, forested peaks lined the six miles descent on the Norpac Trail and I entered Mullen past the large, and still operating, Lucky Friday Mine. The Coeur d'Alene Bike Trail began opposite Mullen's Lookout Motel and I soared swiftly down through a narrow and heavily-mined valley into Wallace.

For the next ten miles, the CdA Trail led past the backyards of miners' houses in small communities like Osburn and Silverton and on to the Old Depot TH in the middle of Kellogg. Here, I biked one-fourth mile north to West Cameron Street. A huge sign nearby identified the Trail Motel, just across the street from a well-stocked supermarket. And it was exactly 4:45 in the afternoon--it would have been 6:45 p.m. had I caught the second shuttle bus instead of the first--all of which emphasizes the need for a prompt and early start today. If you run late, send your support vehicle down to Kellogg to have the motel hold your room. And even on a bike trail, avoid riding in the dark unless you have lights (perhaps the flashlight you bought).

DAY TWO: Kellogg to Harrison, 51 miles. The CdA Trail nearly spans the Idaho Panhandle and today's ride took me through a mix of scenery ranging from the wide, mountain-rimmed Silver Valley to a wilderness of wetlands, lakes and rivers in a corner of America still unspoiled, uncrowded and unknown.


Following the placid Coeur d'Alene River, the CdA Trail weaves through pineclad mountains before crossing a wilderness of rivers, lakes and wetlands

At Pinehurst, the trail turns away from I-90 and winds through a mountain valley that was ablaze with fall colors. From Cataldo TH, it runs for miles beside the placid CdA River. Then atop a railroad levee, you bike more miles across a broad expanse of lily ponds and marsh where, early or late in the day, you may glimpse a moose or an otter or beaver. At any time, you're certain to see dozens of eagles and ospreys soaring overhead. There are no towns or communities and only rarely does a house or farm appear in the distance.

Yet I met at least 50 cyclists per day riding across this remote region. Most seemed to be just out for the day and only a few, those with panniers, appeared to be on an overnight tour. At one TH I met two brothers from Illinois, each traveling on a motor cycle towing a trailer and each carried a folding bicycle which they had just been riding on the trail.

For the last few miles into Harrison, the trail hugs the shore of Lake Coeur d'Alene while overhead, the trees are dotted with the huge nests of eagles and ospreys.

Poised on a low hill overlooking its picturesque boat docks and waterfront, Harrison is a Victorian gem, a delightful village of old-time brick buildings where cafes, restaurants, shops and a supermarket-deli line the rambling streets. To ensure you can stay here overnight, I strongly recommend phoning ahead for a reservation well in advance, especially at weekends.

DAY THREE: Harrison to Cour d'Alene; 27 miles of cycling. Today began with a short, scenic 7-mile ride on the CdA Trail south along the shore of Lake Coeur d'Alene and across the historic Chatcolet Swing Bridge to Heyburn State Park. All of this ride lies within the Coeur d'Alene Indian Reservation. I then returned the same way to Harrison. From Harrison, I drove on scenic State 97 and I-90 to Exit 15 and on down Lake Shore Drive to Higgens Point TH on the Idaho Centennial Trail.

(Another option would be to continue cycling on the CdA Trail from Heyburn State Park uphill through Plummer Canyon to Plummer TH, where the trail ends 15 miles from Harrison. Cyclists who elect this route may have their support vehicle drive to the Plummer TH by a longer route. From the town of Plummer, they then drive north on US95 to Coeur d'Alene , then east through the city to Lakeshore Drive and Higgens Point TH. Location of the Hiway Motel in Plummer has already been mentioned but it's also worth noting that at Worley, ten miles north of Plummer on US95, is the Coeur d'Alene Indian tribe's casino and a large 200-room hotel. )

Cycling the flat 11-mile Centennial Trail from Higgens Point to Ironwood-Selstice Way Park TH in Coeur d'Alene city, is simply a matter of following the route clearly shown on the map in the North Idaho Centennial Trail folder. It's a mix of car-free bike trail and bike lanes painted on both sides of low-traffic streets. Much of the way, the trail stays close to the lake, with far-flung views of its mountain-rimmed shores.

I also passed through City Beach Park, the opulent Resort Plaza Mall, and North Idaho College. Finally, the trail wound along the Coeur d'Alene River and up to the Ironwood TH. For the few short blocks from here to the Motel Six, I recommend using your support vehicle.

DAY FOUR: Coeur d'Alene ID to Spokane WA, 51 miles. From the city's Ironwood- Selstice Way Park TH, I biked west along Idaho's Centennial Trail on a series of low roller- coaster hills on the south side of I-90. Soon, the trail passed the park-like grounds of Huetter Rest Stop, located on the eastbound side of I-90 and complete with information office, toilets and picnic tables.

For the next 4 miles, the trail led through suburbs of the town of Post Falls. Then came a detour on painted bike lanes along Ross Point Road-Ponderosa Avenue-Greenferry Road back to the bike lane. Following the map in the North Idaho Centennial Trail folder, I had no problem finding the way. And so the trail led on across the Spokane River and into Washington.

At a fork in the trail, I took the right branch where a sign pointed to "Info Center for Washington Centennial Trail." The trail looped under I-90 to a Trailhead on the Interstate's north side. Yet I never saw an info center. But not to worry because after a couple of miles next to I-90, the trail swung north and stayed beside the Spokane River, providing a flat, scenic and enjoyable ride right to the outskirts of Spokane.

Here I began meeting scores of cyclists, all cycling to celebrate a recent anniversary of the opening of the Washington Centennial Trail. At Mile 10.5, I found a TrailFest in progress with music, refreshments and booths staffed by cyclists eager to spread the word about all of the trails I had just been riding. I handed out flyers about this website to Ms. Jon Roscoff, President of the Spokane Bicycle Club and several others. All promised to view this report as soon as it is posted On-Line.

Leaving the Trailfest, the trail crossed the Spokane River at Denis Bridge (pedestrians and cyclists only) and wound on for another mile to Marongo TH, where the bike trail ends at the edge of Spokane. From here, I continued on painted bike lanes along Marongo, Farr and Upriver Streets to a busy intersection with 4-laned Argonne Avenue. To avoid cycling down truck-thronged Argonne Avenue to the Motel Six East, I scouted out the much quieter route outlined below.

Continue west across Argonne Avenue and stay on the bike lane for one block to Marguerite Road. Turn left into Marguerite and cycle one block to Maringo Drive. Turn left into Maringo and pedal one block to the Argonne Road Bridge. Walk your bike across the bridge on the pedestrian path. Then walk or ride 150 yards south on the Argonne Road sidewalk to Liberty Avenue. Turn right on to Liberty and cycle west 7 blocks to Vista Road. Turn left into Vista and bike south across Trent Street and the railroad tracks to Knox Street. Turn left into Knox and pedal six short blocks to Hutchinson Street. Turn right into Hutchinson and you'll see the Motel Six East one block away.

This route is easy to follow if you trace it out on a street map beforehand. And believe me, it's far preferable to risking your life trying to cycle on Argonne Avenue.

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And so ended a wonderful tour.

But for me, that wasn't the end. Next morning, I set out on a six hour drive along I- 90, US385, I-82 and I-84 to The Dalles, Oregon--there to begin yet another fantastic 4-day bike tour through the Columbia River Gorge.

To learn how to do the same, simply click on the "Columbia River Gorge Tour" on the Home Page menu.

Where To Get Trail Maps And Information

Trail maps and helpful literature are available free at almost all area Tourist or Visitor Information Office and even at motels. But the following On-Line sources will also usually mail maps to you. Besides asking for a specific map, ask also if they have any other info or maps on other area bike trails they can send you. Larger info offices may stock maps to several bike trails and mail them free to anyone who asks. Visitor Information Offices in towns and cities also have street maps and lists of lodgings and campgrounds they can send. Usually, paper maps are clearer and better quality than those you can download.

The most valuable maps to ask for are:-

Recreational Trails of the Idaho Panhandle (Hiawatha-Norpac-Coeur d'Alene and ID Centennial Trails). A MUST HAVE, published by and available from www.friendsofthecdatrails.org/

North Idaho Centennial Trail.

Trail of the Coeur d'Alenes Map/Folder. Another MUST HAVE! Large map and info folder of CdA Trail (available from www.friendsofthecdatrails.org/)

Street Map of Coeur d'Alene and Post Falls, free from www.coeurdalene.org or email <info@coeurdalene.org> or Phone 208-664-3194.

Spokane Area Street Map ; shows all Spokane streets and Centennial Trail, published by Spokane CoC.

IDAHO

www.idahoaccommodations.com/ Overnight lodgings in Idaho.

www.ridethehiawatha.com/ Hiawatha Trail info from Lookout Pass Ski Lodge.

www.fs.fed.us/ipnf/activities/biking/hiawatha.html/ Map and info on Hiawatha Trail.

www.friendsofcdatrails.org/ Best info on CdA and other North Idaho trails, good map source, trail photos. Publishes and mails out "Trail of the Coeur d'Alenes" and "Recreational Trails of the Idaho Panhandle" and other maps. PO Box 804, Wallace ID 83873. Phone 208-752-4721.

www.northidahocentennialtrail.org/ Info, map on ID Centennial Trail.

www.coeurdalene.org/   Coeur d'Alene city Visitors Bureau usually has all area trail maps plus street map of city and Post Falls. email is <info@coeurdalene.org> and phone 208-664- 3194.

WASHINGTON

www.tourism.wa.gov/ Click on "cities and lodgings" for accommodations in Washington cities.

www.spokanecentennialtrail.org/ Has downloadable 4-section WA Centennial Trail Map and info on trailside accommodations. Also sells slick paper Spokane River Trail Map for $3 covering entire Centennial Trail.

www.visitspokane.com/ Spokane Regional Info Center; email them at <info@visitspokane.com> and ask for the Chamber of Commerce Spokane Area Street Map which also shows WA Centennial Trail. Phone 509-747-3230.

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