CYCLING  CALIFORNIA
--The Do-It-Yourself Way

By  Norman D. Ford
 

For a ten day tour of non-stop pedaling, from one world-famous cycling experience to another--with hardly a dull moment in between--try Cycling California, the Do-It-Yourself Way.

Huge  elephant  seals  sprawl  on  the  beaches  within  a  few  yards  of  Highway One

Starting off with an awesome 90-mile ride high  on the cliffs of America's wildest
seacoast--past beaches filled with monstrous elephant seals--I pedaled on around  fabulous 17-Mile Drive and on down the Cannery Row of Steinbeck's novel into Monterey.  Next,  I soared across vast San Francisco Bay on the Golden Gate Bridge and on through that Holy Grail of American cycling--Marin County--to Point Reyes National Seashore for two nights in a traditional cyclist's  Hostel.  Then came more exciting bike travel, through towering  redwood forests beside the Russian River and across the Napa Valley wine country to the university town of Davis, famed for its network of bicycle paths.  Finally, I cycled part-way around beautiful Lake Tahoe and ended the trip near  the Nevada state line.

I based this ride on a new dimension in Do-It-Yourself cycling which I call Bike-Car Touring.  You'll find the idea exemplified already in some of our Touring Without Traffic tours, in which a small group of 3 or 4 cyclists uses a support-vehicle as a shuttle to link together several unconnected bike paths into a continuous multi-day tour.  By sharing the driving, a group can keep moving up their support vehicle which also carries all the luggage, thus freeing the cyclists to ride without panniers.  This allows cyclists to focus only on the most inviting parts of a tour while they use the support vehicle to skip metropolitan or industrial areas and truck-thronged highways that may be dangerous to ride on.  But more about this later.

So here's my basic schedule  for the California tour and the two van-shuttle links (plus a single short one) that  I used.  I strongly recommend sticking to the same days of the week that I list.  I began my tour at San Simeon, on California's Pacific Coast Highway One, about 35 miles northwest of San Luis Obispo and 100 miles west of Bakersfield.

Monday.  Hiway One: San Simeon to Ragged Point Inn,  16 miles
Tuesday.  Ragged Point Inn to Big Sur, 50 miles
Wednesday.  Big Sur to Monterey-Marina via 17-Mile Drive, 54 miles
Thursday.  Cycle back to Monterey to explore at leisure, returning to Marina for overnight,  20 miles
Friday.  Drive with bikes in support vehicle to San Francisco (2 nights).
Saturday.  Explore San Francisco, by bike if you like.
Sunday.  San Francisco to Point Reyes National Seashore, 50 miles
Monday. Day ride in Point Reyes N.S. to the Light House and back, 25 miles
Tuesday.  Point Reyes N.S. to Occidental or Guerneville by a choice of routes, 43-56  miles to Occidental,
     55-68 miles to Guerneville.
Wednesday.  Guerneville to Calistoga, 45 miles
Thursday.   Calistoga to Davis, 75 miles
Friday. Davis to Tahoe City by support vehicle, then cycle to South Lake Tahoe, 39 miles.
Total Minimum Cycling Distance is 417 miles in 10 cycling days (12 days altogether).

This schedule minimizes cycling on weekends, when motorists pour out of San Francisco and overnight accommodations are hard-to-find, while motel rates also increase on Friday and Saturday nights.  And, of course, there's far less traffic on weekdays than on weekends.

As usual, I'll describe  my trip first, then give the practical info you'll need if you plan to duplicate my trip on your own.  For starters, this is a fairly strenuous ride suitable for intermediate or experienced cyclo-tourists and it's very definitely not for beginners or the faint-hearted or those whose energy may flag or who may suffer from knee problems.  And while some roads carry very light traffic, others are popular with touring motorists and you may encounter a moderate level of car traffic.

Large  signs  reminding  motorists  to  share  the  road  are  common  in  California

But this tour takes you far from the California of freeways and malls and through an early- day California still largely free of Walmarts, McDonalds, Denny's and similar icons of our mindless, consumer-driven society. Personally, I found California motorists far more bike- friendly than those in the Midwest or South.  Many towns have painted bike lanes on city streets while wide shoulders and large yellow "Share The Road" signs are common on roads.  California seemed far more cosmopolitan and international --a mix of races, cultures, religions and languages--and is much more liberal, progressive and pro-environmental than the Midwest or South.  Cyclists are common, most astride high-end racing bikes, and they seem to cycle almost everywhere without hesitation.  I should point out here that my entire tour was through Northern California and none of my comments apply to that overcrowded nightmare called Southern California.

In the travelog below,   I name the motel or lodging at which I stayed in each town, and I also name other accommodations along the way that are popular with cyclists.  All lodgings are preceded by the abbrevation M. and those I'd recommend for good value are also tabbed RD. (Example, "M. Budget Inn, Anytown.  RD."   meaning "Motel Budget Inn at Anytown is recommended").  Don't expect a Holiday Inn Express or a Hampton Inn. Generally, I head for the least expensive motel.  But much of this route traverses scenic and popular tourist regions far from Motel Sixes and other economy lodgings.  So expect to pay somewhat higher rates than you may be used to.  Nonetheless, I did stay at four Motel Sixes and also at a comfortable cyclist's Hostel that charged only $16 a night.

I also strongly recommend making advance reservations at all lodgings you plan to stay at, especially for Friday and Saturday nights.  Some resort accommodations may have only a few lower-priced rooms and these fill up first.

Also I identify in red type and with **** all parts of my tour which rank among the most scenic and  unique cycling experiences in California (Example: ****Golden Gate Bridge.)

A DAY-BY-DAY LOG OF THE TOUR.

DAY 1, MONDAY:  San Simeon to Ragged Point Inn, 16 miles.  I arrived at San Simeon on the previous evening, Sunday, and stayed at:
M. Six, beside Highway One in  San Simeon Community, RD.  805-927-8691.  Two-story with interior corridor but bikes can be taken into rooms.   Supermarket in Cambria, 4 miles south.

****HIGHWAY  ONE.  Flanked by the majestic Santa Lucia Mountains to the east and the wide Pacific to the West, California's Highway One (aka the Big Sur Highway) reaches north from San Simeon for 90 incredibly scenic miles.  In many places hacked out of sheer cliffs, the road took 20 years to build, much of it with convict labor, and it opened in 1937.  Twisting, winding and curling up over rugged headlands far above the crashing waves, Highway One provides a cliff-hanging bike ride with endless views and ever-changing seascapes.

Few large trucks or RVs can negotiate its steep switchbacks and most traffic is limited to cars and medium or smaller-sized ones at that.  I found a shoulder of sorts nearly all the way to Carmel (at the northern end) ranging from a narrow 12 inches to 40 inches or wider.  And literally hundreds of cyclists ride all or part of this road each week.

Starting from San Simeon, it was just 3 miles to a short loop road that led off to the left through San Simeon State Park and the historic village of San Simeon.  Then just across Highway One, I found the entrance to Hearst Castle, one of America's great showplaces, jammed with priceless art collections and surrounded by gardens with pools, terraces and walkways.  I did cycle half a mile up to the Visitor Center but no bike parking racks were visible.  With an early start, you could probably squeeze in a visit and still have time to cycle on to Ragged Point Inn.  But just 8 more miles up Highway One, another major sight awaited.

****PIEDRAS BLANCAS ELEPHANT SEAL SANCTUARY. Just past a lighthouse--its light flashing every few seconds because of drifting fog--I came to a series of coves and beaches crowded with huge Northern Elephant Seals.   A mere ten yards below the road, the seals provided a spectacular show as they lay on their backs sunning themselves while many of the huge creatures rolled and played in the surf.
Motorists are allowed to stop only at the main beach which they can view from a walkway.  But cyclists can stop beside other coves and beaches, many filled with molting females and wide-eyed squawking pups (Note: you must stay on the highway shoulder).    Females average 600 pounds in weight while huge males weigh up to 1,000 pounds or more.  You can find out more about the seals by clicking on the website <www.elephantseal.org>

A few miles beyond, the winding ribbon of blacktop I was riding turned inland and began a steep, mile-long climb, high above the ocean, to my overnight stop:
M.  Ragged Point Inn, 805-927-4502, www.raggedpointinn.com/.  Poised on a clifftop with a breathtaking view of the Pacific, this posh resort hotel is one of few hostelries on this stretch of Highway One.  Rates are at their lowest during off season weekdays (4/2 to 6/10 and 9/24 on, Suns through Thurs) and I strongly recommend reserving one of their least expensive rooms well in advance.  Need I tell you  we saved a bundle by bringing our own picnic-type dinner in the support vehicle and eating outdoors at a picnic table overlooking the amazing beauty of the Big Sur Coast.

DAY 2, TUESDAY.  Ragged Point Inn to Big Sur, 50 miles. Today's ride began by pedaling up steep switchbacks and around hairpin bends on a challenging climb of over 800 feet elevation gain in 7 miles.  Then, as I glided in and out of drifting fogbanks, Highway One plunged steeply down for 7 more miles to the tiny hamlet of Gorda Springs.

Gorda Springs, barely 50 feet above sea level, is a tiny oceanfront resort at the foot of a hill beside Highway One.  Behind the convenience store and cafe is a small cottage resort with studio rooms you can reserve by phoning 805-927-3918; www.bigsurgordasprings.com/. The waters are deep immediately offshore, allowing whales to come close in and while gray whales are most numerous, it's not unusual to sight a humpback, blue or orcas.  I heard a pair of birdwatchers discussing the chances of seeing a condor, eagle or falcon  while the hyacinths and other garden flowers here were similar to those I once saw growing in the cool, damp climate of the Azores.

For the next 13 miles, Highway One provided a roller-coaster ride along the surf-pounded coast to the hamlet of Lucia.
M. Lucia Lodge, 866-424-4787, www.lucialodge.com/.  Here you can lunch on a deck overlooking a spectacular expanse of cliffs and churning ocean.  There are ten overnight cabins with an equally breath-stopping view.

Many  cyclists  lunch  on  this  deck  at  Lucia  Lodge  while  enjoying  the  breath-stopping  view

Next came a gradual 4-mile descent to Big Creek Bridge, a fairly modern twin-arched bridge spanning the deep chasm of Big Creek.  From the bridge to Esalen Institute, Highway One was narrow, winding and hilly.  Then approaching Big Sur, I cycled up a series of rolling hills that topped out in a redwood forest at 850 feet elevation.  Once over the top and dropping down to Big Sur, Highway One became wider and sported a narrow bike lane.  By now, the road had turned inland and I was coasting downhill through a forest of towering redwoods.  Three miles from Big Sur, I passed the upscale Big Sur Lodge and Restaurant surrounded by giant trees in Julia Pfeiffer-Big Sur State Park.  And half a mile beyond I found a Forest Ranger Station with free maps and info.  From here on I coasted through Big Sur, a 4-mile long scattering of lodgings, eateries, small markets, a deli, bakery and expresso cafes, all tucked away among  trees at the edge of Highway One and more a state of mind than an actual town. Here I stayed overnight at:
M. Glen Oaks Motel, 831-667-2105; www.glenoaksbigsur.com/.  It's a one-story motel in a restful setting beside Highway One and I was assured it had the most affordable rates in the area.  The Ripplewood Inn next door had similar rates: 831-667-2242; www.ripplewoodresort.com/.

During today's ride, there were frequent turnouts on Highway One, making it easy to change drivers in a support vehicle every hour.  I also passed several State Parks with tent camping.  One solution to the high rates on Highway One is to carry basic camping gear in the support vehicle and tent camp overnight.  It's also possible to save money by tent camping in State Parks or other campgrounds north of San Francisco.

DAY 3, WEDNESDAY:  Big Sur to Marina, 54 miles. Today, my route was fairly level but packed with sights and scenery, so much in fact, that I suggest cycling part-way back tomorrow to explore it all.  For half the distance, I "rollered" gradually downhill on Highway One and the rest was on a private road and a wonderful paved bike path closed to motorized vehicles.

Bixby  Bridge, on  Highway  One,  was  built  during  the  Depression  by the Civilian  Conservation  Corps

The first 12 miles led past Andrew Molera State Park (tent camping) to historic Bixby Bridge, built by unemployed young men during the Depression.  Then, as narrow Highway One wound along the coast, I glimpsed several whale spouts.  And a local cyclist I met said she often saw playful sea otters gambolling among beds of floating seaweed.

At Rio Road, I turned left and soon glimpsed the Moorish belltower of Carmel Mission.

Have your support vehicle close behind here because ahead lies an extremely unpleasant 4- mile stretch of very narrow road (17-Mile Drive between Carmel and Pebble Beach) that I recommend you transit in your vehicle.  However, you can pedal on up into Carmel, an elegant and charm-filled village full of art galleries and boutiques and a bastion of non- conformity and individualism.  Park your vehicle where you can find it, and spend half-an- hour walking past Carmel's arty houses and cycling around town on the Scenic Drive.  But don't be too long.  There's still a long way to go.

Next, I recommend loading your bikes  and yourselves into your support vehicle and driving it for four very narrow and car-crowded  miles, past a world famous and veddy fashionable golf course, to the town of Pebble Beach (market, stores).  Take your bikes out here and start riding on 17-Mile Drive.

****SEVENTEEN-MILE DRIVE  is a privately-owned, two-laned road that takes you past the overwhelming grandeur of the Monterey Peninsula.   From Pebble Beach, the shore road hugs a fantastic stretch of rockbound coast studded with twisted trees blown by the wind into grotesque and surrealistic shapes.  Also known as Oligarch Avenue, this winding, shoulderless  road is lined by huge, baronial-era mansions, some built like Roman castles or Mediterranean palaces with red-tiled roofs.

Once past Fan Shell Beach and its seal rookery (blocked from view), 17-Mile Drive stays close to the shore and yields close-ups of Pacific breakers rolling in and crashing on a wilderness of rocky outcrops and capes.  On weekdays, there's little traffic and bikes are allowed on the road without charge.  (But on weekends, bikes may have to enter at the Pacific Grove (northern end) of the Drive.  Too, signs direct northbound cyclists to avoid the shore road and to cut inland across the peninsula.  However, locals ignore the signs and ride the more scenic shore road in both directions.  Thus, for several reasons,  I urge cycling 17- Mile Drive on a weekday.)

About  200  cormorants  were  drying  their  wings  on  this  rock  just 50  yards offshore  from  17-Mile  Drive near  Monterey

At massive Cormorant Rock, I stopped to photograph a colony of at least 200 black cormorants crowding the lee side of the island rock, their wings spread to dry in the sun.  There were no more mansions but a series of golf courses bordered the road on which I counted as many deer as players.  Finally, 17-Mile Drive entered the community of Pacific Grove (market, cafes) and I pedaled on around the coast on quiet Sunset Drive (Highway 68) to Lovers Point.  Here, I turned inland and looked left to see the:

****MONTEREY COUNTY RECREATIONAL TRAIL, a paved and car-free bike path that runs all the way through Monterey and on across the tops of giant sand dunes to Marina and its Motel Six.  The trail hugs the shore most of the way and soon I came to a beach littered with harbor seals.   It was fascinating to watch mothers teach their pups to use their flippers to ride up the beach on the surf, then to flip their way higher up.

Minutes later, I was cycling past the world-famous Monterey Bay Aquarium, then I turned down Cannery Row, still lined by sardine canneries that long ago were spruced up and transformed into fancy restaurants, bars and boutiques.  The trail led on across Monterey's historic Presidio where a band was playing unique drum music.  Then I walked my bike out on Fisherman's Wharf past a row of fish shops and fish restaurants (try some clam chowder).  In between, I glimpsed more harbor seals--and what looked like sealions-- sporting in the sea.

Heading east around the bay, the trail stays close to busy Del Monte Avenue.  At Estero Lake, I crossed this 4-lane highway to the Monterey County Convention and Visitors Center (www.montereyinfo.org or  882-221-1010) and picked up an excellent $1 map showing the bike route around the entire Monterey Peninsula from Carmel to Marina.  It's a large, glossy folding map and  the back shows the route of Highway One all the way from San Simeon.

Through Monterey, cyclists share this popular trail with skaters, runners and walkers.  But once past Monterey, there were few but cyclists heading north.  Probably that was because the trail now zig-zagged and climbed up a series of enormous sand dunes that rose steeply from the beach to a height of 200 feet or more.  Along this stretch I met almost no one.  Then the trail crossed Highway One and ran beside Del Monte Blvd into the town of Marina.  I took a left into Reservation Road  and cycled on a bike lane almost to the door of the Motel Six.

M. Six, on Reservation Road next to Highway One.  831-384-1000, 126 units, two story with near-door parking downstairs.  RD, affordable off-season rates  to 5/26 and after 10/15; $10 more at weekends.    One mile to supermarket.

This  superb,  paved  Recreation  Trail   hugs  the  crest of  monstrous  sand  dunes  between  Monterey  and  Marina

DAY 4, THURSDAY: Marina to Monterey or beyond and back to Marina, 20 miles or more.
On Day 4, I cycled back on the Recreation Bike Trail to Monterey and took in all the interesting activities that I did not have time for yesterday.  The cruise ship Infinity was anchored about a mile offshore and passengers from the ship thronged Fisherman's Wharf and other attractions.  However, I did have time to rent a kayak for a couple of hours at a beachside boat rental not far from Lovers Point.  Also, I cycled part way back along 17-Mile Drive as far as Cormorant Rock and back to Marina.  (M. Six, Marina.)
Note: if you prefer, you could use Day 4 to drive to San Francisco and spend 3 nights there instead of two.  See Day 5 for more about San Francisco.

DAY 5, FRIDAY: Marina to San Francisco, by support vehicle 130 miles.  The most scenic but slowest route is to stay on Highway One which traverses Santa Cruz and stays close to the sea much of the way.  Otherwise, you might try US101, a faster freeway route.

If you're interested in cycling this route, much of Highway One offers pleasant cycling though traffic increases approaching San Francisco. You'll find a detailed description of bike-touring from Marina to San Francisco under Days 26 and 27 in the Border-to-Border section of Lonely Planet's Cycling the USA West Coast; and on Adventure Cycling's Pacific Coast Touring Map, Section 4, San Francisco to Santa Barbara.
 Allow about 3 days for the ride.

SAN FRANCISCO.  Most escorted bike tours that pass through San Francisco allow their participants to explore the city on their own.  Among popular budget hotels are:
M. Dakota Hotel, near Union Square at 606 Post St., 415-931-7475.
M. Phoenix Hotel, 601 Eddy St., 415-776-1380.
M.  Alamo Square Inn, 719 Scott Street at Fulton St., 415-922-2055.
M. San Remo Hotel, a funky, bike-friendly North Beach hotel near Fisherman's Wharf with shared baths, and no phones or TV--best bet for cyclists. 415-776-8688.
When calling to inquire about a reservation, ask if bikes are allowed in rooms (or in a secure  storeroom) and where you can park your support vehicle.

The AAA Guide to Northern California and Nevada also lists a number of less expensive hotels near the Marina area and Fisherman's Wharf.  If you're a AAA member, order their free San Francisco  and San Francisco Bay Area Maps before leaving home.  The AAA Guide gives good advice on sightseeing.  And Lonely Planet's Cycling USA West Coast Guide gives loads of advice on exploring the city by bike, including taking your bike on BART trains and across the Bay on car ferries.  For example, you can take your bike on a BART Train to North Berkeley Station and explore the Berkeley UC campus.  Or you can bike across the Golden Gate Bridge and pedal around Mount Tam.

For more information, contact or visit the San Francisco Visitor Information Center, 900 Market Street, 415-391-2000.  If you phone or write requesting a Visitors Vacation Kit and street map, they will likely send you a complete Visitor's Guide, including a street map and some info on cycling.  You could easily spend a month experiencing everything in this great California city.

DAY 6, SATURDAY: This full day is yours to spend in San Francisco and you stay here overnight.

DAY 7, SUNDAY: San Francisco to Point Reyes National Seashore, 50 miles. Why cycle across a heavily-populated county next to one of America's largest cities on a Sunday, a day when roads are filled with weekend motorists?  Answer: because until midday, I'd be riding on a series of car-free bike paths or on quiet backroads.  And the main roads would also be filled with hundreds of cyclists, anyway.  Besides, this Sunday schedule fitted in better with completing the rest of the trip!

Fortunately, I had with me a copy of Marin County Bicycle Coalition's indispensable Marin County Bicycle Map, by far the clearest and most easy-to-follow bike map of Marin County.  And I strongly advise not even thinking about cycling the Cross Marin Bike Path without it (see listing of maps later; the map is also sold by most bike shops)  Yet it was always possible to be delayed by taking a wrong turn.  So I started early and recommend the same strategy to others.  Actually, this is a fairly long and steady climb over the crest of the Coast Range with another 5 hilly miles inside Point Reyes National Seashore.

Cycling  across  huge  Golden  Gate  Bridge is  always  an  exhiliarating  experience

****GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE.  My day began in the Marina area at Maritime Park where I quickly located the San Francisco Bay Bike Trail (aka Golden Gate Promenade).  The trail headed straight for Golden Gate Bridge then climbed a hill to the Vista Point parking area (toilet).  Scores of tourists, mostly from Europe and Asia, milled around and the air was filled with the sounds of a dozen languages.   Many of the visitors planned to walk across the bridge and back.
Here I should  explain that, on each side of the bridge roadway, is a  paved walkway 9 feet wide and separated from traffic.  Because it was Sunday, cyclists had to ride across the bridge in both direction on the west walkway.  Meanwhile, pedestrians crossed on the east walkway.  (On weekdays, both cyclists and pedestrians share the east walkway but after 3.30 p.m., cyclists may also use the west walkway.)

On weekends, the best plan is simply to follow the crowds of cyclists who head north out of the city and across the bridge to Marin County.  But whether on weekends or weekdays, it's an exhiliarating experience to cycle 200 feet above the bay, with freighters from China stacked with containers passing underneath, and with panoramas of Marin County's hills and bays to the north, and the shining white city of San Francisco to the east.  A strong, cold wind blowing across the bridge made it all the more exciting and I donned a windbreaker before starting.

Following the walkway's parabolic curve, I cycled first uphill to the mid-point of the bridge then down the other side to the north end Vista Point parking area (toilet).  It was hard to believe that this tremendous bridge , 4,200 feet in length and one of the world's longest, was completed in 1937 (but bikes were not allowed to cross until years later).

From Vista Point, a paved bike path led out to Alexander Avenue, the main road down to Sausalito.  And within seconds, I was speeding downhill on a painted bike lane on this busy road.  Clearly shown on my map is a short jog cyclists must take around 2nd street and Richardson  before heading on down into the Main Street of Sausalito, a relaxed resort town with a picturesque center facing Richardson Bay.  Heading north, Main Street soon became Bridgeway, and opposite the Bicycle Odyssey shop, I branched right on to the Mill Valley-Sausalito Bike Path,  which forms the first leg of the Cross Marin Bike Path.

From here on, I let the Marin Bicycle Map be my guide.  Crossing Gate 6 Road, I mistook the Freeway Access for the bike path and had to make a fast about-turn.  Then the bike path led under the freeway (US101/Highway One) and crossed a wetland  to intersect with Blithedale Ave.  Following the map, I jogged right on to Lomita Drive and pedaled up over 150-feet high Alto Hill and on down Meadowbrook Drive to the center of Corte Madera.  Two  motels here offer less expensive lodging, the older Budget Inn at 706 Meadowbrook Drive (415-924-3680) and the Best Value Inn on paralleling Casa Buena Drive (415-924- 3570).

Facing me now was a wide bike path signed #15.  Other bike paths I passed also bore numbered signs.  No one seemed to know what they meant nor was a map of these numbered bike paths available.  Finally, I learned that numbering each bike path was an ongoing county project and that a map would not be available until the job was finished.  Anyway, #15 indicated the Cross Marin Bike Path (at least here) and it led north along a creek and beside a canal into the main street of San Anselmo.  A faster, less scenic alternative takes you north on the Magnolia Avenue bike path to the same destination.  Both routes are clearly marked on the map.

At the north end of San Anselmo, the bike route turns left on to San Anselmo Avenue and follows a series of connecting backstreets through Fairfax and on along Olema Road to finally run into the main road called Sir Francis Drake Blvd (SFD).  Through towns like Fairfax you're just a block from the main street which is full of places to eat or drink (not to mention bike shops).  Once on SFD, I made a bottom gear climb on a narrow bike path for 1.25 steep miles up and over the crest of the Coast Range.

The rest was easy.  From White's Hill, as the crest is called, I sped downhill, along with scores of racing cyclists, to Lagunitas Grocery, a deli and snack shop with a cafe terrace.  The place was filled with cyclists.  And one told me to be sure and get off SFD a couple of miles west at a sign that said "Camp Taylor Campground."   He wasn't kidding.  Although there's not a sign mentioning a bike trail, the "Camp Taylor" sign marks the start of a beautiful paved bike path that runs for 3.5 miles through a forest of towering redwoods and by-passes a dangerous stretch of narrow SFD full of blind turns.  The trail is free to cyclists and it runs all the way beside Lagunitas Creek.  I saw no bike signs but if you keep heading north through the campground you can't miss it.  At the other end, it emerges over a bridge back on to SFD.  And it's another two rolling miles down to the hamlet of Olema and via Bear Valley Road to Point Reyes National Seashore Visitor Center.

Entrance to Point Reyes is free and you can pick up a free brochure showing how to ride up Limantour Road (another stiff climb) to the Point Reyes Hostel.
M. Point Reyes Hostel.  415-663-8811,  email < prhostel@norcalhostels.org>  Located in a secluded valley reach by a 5.5 mile ride up from the Visitor Center, this is a traditional cyclists' and hikers' hostel that welcomes active guests of all ages.

DAY 8, MONDAY: Point Reyes Hostel to the Light House, with return by support vehicle, 25 miles of cycling. Roint Reyes National Seashore consists of 100 square miles of coastal wilderness rimmed by 80 miles of pristine coastline rich in wildlife and migratory birds.  Today, you cycle from the Hostel  down to Bear Valley Road and on up SFD (inside the National Seashore) to:

****POINT  REYES  LIGHT  HOUSE  VISITOR  CENTER  WITH  ITS  SEALION  OVERLOOK  AND  LIGHT  HOUSE.   The Light House is usually open Thursday to Monday but check that it is open before you go.  Visiting the Light House is an awesome experience because you must walk up and down 300 steps each way.  Between Sealion Overlook and the Light House Balcony, hundreds of seals and sealions are usually basking on rocks and ledges.  Often, the weather is foggy or windy and the road here is hilly (though with little weekday traffic).  To cycle to the Light House, follow the route in the park folder from the Hostel to Inverness Park and stay on SFD through the community of Inverness (cafe)and up and over Inverness Ridge and on to the Light House Visitor Center.  To save cycling back over the same route, we suggest taking your support vehicle and using it for the return trip.   This way, you could also visit Drake's Beach and the long sweep of Point Reyes Beach on the way back.  Whether they travel by bike or car,  few visitors fail to experience a deep sense of renewal and personal connection to this vibrant natural preserve.  (M. Point Reyes Hostel.)

DAY 9, TUESDAY:  Point Reyes N.S. to Occidental, 43 or 56 miles (or on to Guerneville 55 or 68 miles).   For the first 34 miles of today's ride, as far as Valley Ford, I used the Marin Bicycle Map.  But from Valley Ford on--and for the next two days--the Krebs Map of North San Francisco Bay and Wine Country showed the best detail.  (Note: this map is almost essential.)

From the Hostel, I followed the park folder map down to Point Reyes Station, a village with a small food store and cafe.  Then Highway One (aka Shoreline Road) provided a very scenic northbound ride close to the shore of long, spindly Tomales Bay.  There was no shoulder but the constant rollers, and twists and turns, make it almost impossible for any car to speed.  Traffic was quite light, though one 18-wheeler did go by.  With high green hills on my right and the wide sweep and wetlands of Tomales Bay on my left, Shoreline Drive wound past several oyster fishing hamlets and a couple had oyster restaurants.  Finally, the road headed inland to Tomales, a picturesque village with a deli,  bakery and ice cream shop plus two hotels, the Continental Inn and the William Tell.

For the fewest hills, I took a left from Tomales on Beach Road, then a right on Middle Road, then a left on Whitaker Bluff Road, and finally a right on Valley Ford-Franklin School Road into the tiny community of Valley Ford (cafe, food store).  All were plainly marked on the Krebs map and  were almost completely traffic-free.

At Valley Ford, cyclists have a choice of two routes to Occidental:
1.  The shorter but still scenic route via Freestone and through the redwood forest on Bohemian Way, 43 miles from the Hostel.
2.  The longer route, popular with local cyclists, follows Highway One through Bodega Bay then climbs several challenging hills on scenic and low traffic Coleman Valley Road into Occidental, 56 miles from the Hostel.
At Occidental, cyclists have the choice of staying there overnight; or cycling on for another 12, mostly downhill, miles into Guerneville.

By Route One
 From Valley Ford, I took the Valley Ford-Freestone Road, then the Bodega Highway, for a total 4 miles into Freestone, a hamlet with a cafe.  Here I turned left into Bohemian Way.  These were all narrow, winding roads without shoulders but with very light traffic.  Bohemian Way winds steadily up to Occidental through a deep forest of colossal redwoods.

By Route Two.
No, I didn't go this way but a cyclist who had just ridden it gave me these details.  From Valley Ford, you go west on Highway One to the small resort of Bodega Bay (overnight accommodations) and continue beside the Pacific Coast to Coleman Beach and its Arched Rock.  Here, you turn right into Coleman Valley Road and immediately begin a steep climb up Irish Hill which tops out at an elevation of almost 1,100 feet.  California cyclists consider Coleman Valley Road the classic example of a "redwoods to the sea" ride  over the Coast Range.  The hills are admittedly tough.  But the views are stunning and you pedal constantly in and out of the forest shade and down into the redwoods that surround Occidental.  Coleman Valley Road is 11 miles in length and local cyclists say it is almost traffic-free on weekdays.

By either route, you cycle into:

Occidental: at 576 feet, a quaint and charming village with several hotels and Italian restaurants plus a well-stocked small market.
M. Occidental Hotel, 3610 Bohemian Way.  707-874-3623;  www.occidentalhotel.com/.  Recommended by AAA, this 2-story motel has 26 large rooms, some with refrigerators, and at-door parking downstairs.  Off-season weekday rates seemed affordable.
The Inn at Occidental, 707-874-1047, also looked good.

You can stay here overnight, or continue on for 12 mostly downhill miles through deep redwood forests, then at Monte Rio (more accommodations) turn right into River Road (SR 116) that runs for 4 miles beside the Russian River into Guerneville.  SR 116 is wider, with  bike lanes 4-feet wide.

Guerneville: is a relaxed tourist town, with bars and restaurants offering entertainment at weekends, and said to be popular with gay vacationers, but almost every lodging seemed to also welcome straights.  We couldn't find an inexpensive motel but settled for the centrally located:
M. New Dynamic Inn, 14030 Mill St., 707-869-5082; www.newdynamicinn.com/.  Their rates seemed affordable on weekdays and they also offered insights into New Age cosmic health.

DAY 10, WEDNESDAY: Guerneville to Calistoga, 45 miles. If you stayed last night at Occidental, ride on down this morning to Guerneville where today's log begins.  Ahead lay the famous wine country along the Russian River , a region also popular with cyclists for its rolling wooded hills and tasting rooms at wayside wineries.  There are many scenic bike rides and you can find some listed on the website  <www. Russian RiverTravel.com/>.  (You must use the capital letters.)  Click on "Biking" then "View Additional Rides".  It also lists lodgings.

Today opened with a short 4-mile ride east on the shoulder of SR 116 to the hamlet of Sunset.  Watch carefully for a sign pointing left to Westside Road.  Immediately, you're pedaling on a sinuous, hilly road with very little traffic that tunnels under a canopy of huge trees .  Westside Road is a ride that cyclists talk about, and it's been featured in several bike magazines.  It runs for 16 miles, from River Road at Hacienda Bridge to Healdsburg, a two-lane country road that winds up, over, around and past more redwoods and wineries with tasting rooms.

Just before reaching the US 101 freeway approaching Healdsburg, turn left into Kinley Road--a  flat and very low traffic road--and ride a couple of miles north to Dry Creek Road.  Turn right into Dry Creek Road and under the freeway and  you're in the middle of North Healdsburg.  Though this sizeable town isn't a stop on our tour, should you need to spend a night here, you'll find a good motel right on Dry Creek Road:
M. Travelodge, 178 Dry Creek Road, 707-433-0101, <www.winecountrytravelodge.com>.  At this bike-friendly motel, reduced off-season rates apply through May and again in October.  And the motel is right at the start of the ride to Calistoga.

From the Travelodge, I cycled northeast on Healdsburg Ave., and Alexander Valley Road and into SR 128.  The state road then turned southeast and led for 18 miles to Calistoga.  SR 128 has the narrowest of bike paths and carries moderate car traffic with a few large trucks and an occasional 18-wheeler.  Local cyclists sped down it without heed but I can't claim  it was the best part of the tour.  So for variety, and to avoid the traffic, I turned right on Franz Valley Road and cycled a loop around Franz Valley School Road back on to SR 128 at Calistoga.  The entire loop was winding, narrow and hilly and passed a succession of mountain vineyards.  And it added an extra 3 miles.  But it was certainly more scenic and had far less traffic than SR 128.  The turn-off to Calistoga's Main Street (Lincoln) was just a mile west on SR 128.

Calistoga: is a colorful spa town famed for its hydro-therapy treatments and mud baths.  Bikes are cool here and a popular cyclists' hostelry is:
M. Calistoga Inn, 1250 Lincoln Ave (Main Street), 707-942-4101, <www.calistogainn.com>.  This century old inn has its own brewery plus 18 comfortable rooms ( with shared bath and toilet), requires only a one night minimum stay, and is reputed to have the most affordable rates in town.

If that isn't your thing, there's a Comfort Inn at twice the price.

DAY 11, THURSDAY: Calistoga to Davis, 78 m. Today is the longest ride of the tour.  It starts out with a flat 15-mile spin along the Silverado Trail and ends with another flat 25 mile ride into Davis.  But there's no shortage of hills in between.  So it made sense to start early.

The Silverado Trail leaves Calistoga from Lincoln Road and I pedaled along it, with many other cyclists--on a series of  shoulders and past a broad expanse of vineyards--for 15 miles to Sage Canyon turn-off.  Some cyclists turned off earlier, at Deer Park Road, and began the long, arduous climb over Howell Mountain Road where the elevation reaches 1,842 feet.  En route, they passed through Angwin, a Seventh Day Adventist town where stores close on Saturdays.

Granted,  Howell Mountain Road is one of California's most fabled bike rides, so try it if you like.

 But in view of today's distance, I headed instead up SR 128, Sage Canyon Road.  All these roads are clearly marked on Kreb's North San Francisco Bay and Wine Country Bike Map as far east as Putah Creek Wildlife Area.

The next 13 miles was a small-chainring climb on a narrow, sinuous road beside Lake Hennessey and on up through wooded hills to a cafe at Turtle Rock Junction.  After another 5 miles of uphill spinning, I reached Moskowitz Corner (convenience store, cafe) at 818 feet elevation.  The climb continued to 976 feet, only to pause and then continue climbing to 1,100 feet.

But that was the end of the climbing and I was soon descending through Markley Canyon to Markley Cove, a boat storage depot at the east end of Lake Berryessa.  Then I passed Monticello Dam which forms Lake Berryessa.  Interestingly, cyclists climbing westbound from here back up  to the 1,100 feet elevation, call the climb "Cardiac Hill."

From the foot of Cardiac Hill, SR 128 winds down through Putah Creek Wildlife Area towards the town of Winters.  And it was at this point that I cycled right off the Krebs map.

But not to worry!  SR 128 continued on past groves of walnut and olive trees right into Winters.  Here I met another cyclist with a map-folder called "Solano Yolo Bike Links Map,"  which he kindly gave me.  According to this map, I should stay on SR 128 which soon becomes West Covell Boulevard and has a painted bike path or shoulders all the way to Davis.  But the cyclist recommended turning right on Pedrick Road before reaching Davis and heading a mile or so south then turning left on to Russell Boulevard. ( I tell how to obtain a copy of this invaluable map later.)  Also I believe the AAA's Sacramento Area map shows all the backroads in this region.

The cyclist's directions were absolutely correct.  Russell Boulevard has a separate paved bike path that leads for 8 miles east to the edge of the huge campus of CU Davis.

Here I switched to yet another street map.  This one, called Davis Street Guide and UC Davis Guide Map, can be obtained in advance by phoning Yolo County Visitors Bureau at 530-297-1900 or UC Davis Transportation & Parking Services at 530-752-BIKE.  I had obtained this map-folder in advance by telling them I needed a street map of Davis BEFORE I entered Davis, so that I could find my way to the center and on to the Motel Six.  With this detailed street map, it was a cinch to bike on into downtown Davis, then east along Second Street and Mace Boulevard to the Motel Six.

DAVIS:  a major university town, Davis is known worldwide for its elaborate network of bicycle paths and for having encouraged bikes to be a principal mode of transportation.  Cyclists are everywhere, not merely students but businessmen and people shopping.  With over 40,000 bikes in town, Davis has the highest per capita ratio of bikes-to-residents in the U.S., and biking is a way of life for many.  Almost every point in town can be accessed by bicycle.  Not surprisingly, Davis is also famed for its annual Whole Earth Festival and virtually everyone strongly believes that global warming is already a reality.

Cyclists  of  all  ages  pedal  all  over  town  on  the  extensive  network  of  bicycle  paths  in Davis, California

By the way, there appears to be hourly train service from Davis to Oakland with connection by ferry to San Francisco; and also from Davis to San Luis Obispo (a 3-hour trip) which has a Motel 6 and is an easy 35 mile bike ride from San Simeon; Monterey also has an Amtrak station.  Click on <www.amtrak.com> for details.  Too, the Solano-Yolo Bike Links Map shows a bike route from Davis to Winters and on to Vallejo Ferry Terminal from where you can take your bike on a car ferry to San Francisco.  This invaluable map can be picked up at almost any local information office or transportation terminal; or by calling  Solano-Napa Commuter Information at  800-53-KMUTE and requesting that a copy be mailed to you.
.
M.  Six, 4835 Chiles Road, 530-753-3777.  Two story, near-door parking, moderate rates which are not raised on weekends or seasonally.
 

DAY 12, FRIDAY: Davis to South Lake Tahoe, 39 cycling miles. The final day of the tour began with a 2.5 hour drive in the support vehicle on I-80 and SR 89 from Davis to Tahoe City on Lake Tahoe.  And the cycling program was to pedal from Tahoe City around the southwest quadrant of Lake Tahoe--and past the mind-blowing beauty of Emerald Bay--to the popular resort of South Lake Tahoe.

At a high, cool 6,200 feet, rimmed by pineclad mountains, and famed for its clear, deep, blue-green waters, Lake Tahoe lies half in California and half in Nevada.  All of today's ride was in California and it took me around what was clearly the most beautiful part of the lake.

Tahoe City: the busy commercial hub of the western shore, offers every resource from motels like Travelodge and stores like Albertsons to a variety of other lodgings, cafes, pizzerias, restaurants and bike shops.  Before leaving here, I picked up a copy of the free Lake Tahoe Visitors Map, available at almost every motel or eaterie.  It has a large map of my route, including a street map of South Lake Tahoe.

From Tahoe City's center, I began cycling south on SR 89 which hugs the shore much of the way to South Lake Tahoe.  Local car traffic soon diminished and for 18 miles SR 89 took me past small resort towns like Tahoma and Meeks Bay, all with plenty of places to eat or stay.

****EMERALD  BAY.  South of Meeks Bay, SR 89 began a steady climb up past Rubicon Point and L.D. Bliss State Park and beyond, all on a shoulderless, two-lane road hacked out of the steep mountainside.  Almost sheer below, the incredibly deep, blue waters of Emerald Bay unfolded, a pineclad island in its center.  Across the bay, I watched the cars moving slowly up to Inspiration Point, the parking area and viewpoint at the top of the climb.  And all around was a ring of steep, stark and rocky mountains still buried under last winter's snow.

View  from  Inspiration  Point  across Emerald Bay  with  SR89, which cyclists must climb, clearly visible.  And that's snow just above the road.

Admittedly, the ride would have been more enjoyable without the moderate car traffic.  Yet for drivers and cyclists who stopped to view the tumultuous panorama at Inspiration Point, it was sheer sensory overload all the way.

Leaving Inspiration Point, SR 89 plunged abruptly downhill in a series of hairpin bends and multiple curves which took cyclists speeding down as fast as cars.  But don't be going so fast you fail to notice two green signs at the foot of the descent.

The sign on the right points to SPRING CREEK ROAD.
The sign on the left says "BIKE PATH".

Stop immediately and cross to the six-feet wide, paved bike path on the left side of the road.  This National Forest bike path continues gradually downhill through a forest of tall trees and on quiet, residential streets right to South Lake Tahoe's Motel Six. En route, a sign points left to Tallac Historic Site.  This short paved loop took me past a series of historic summer homes built by wealthy San Francisco merchants  in the early 1920s.  Tallac Loop rejoins the Forest bike path and soon I was cycling down quiet Eloise Street through the heart of South Lake Tahoe and right past the familiar profile of a Motel Six.
M. Six, 2375 Lake Tahoe Blvd. 530-542-1400, a large, older, two-story motel with at-door parking  and individual air conditioners.  Ask for a downstairs room at the back facing the bike path.

Officially, the trip ended here.  But the bike path continues north from the motel for another 5 miles to the Nevada State Line  and the complex of high-rise gaming casinos along the Nevada border.  I found a map of the route in the Lake Tahoe Visitors Map.  (Tip: try to stay off the main road as much as possible and don't ride in the dark.)

PRACTICAL  INFORMATION  AND  MAP  SOURCES  FOR CYCLING  THIS  TOUR

CAR-BIKE  TOURING

To duplicate this tour as I describe it means having a support vehicle capable of carrying a small group (say 4 cyclists) plus their bikes and baggage.  Since most people reach the starting point  by car, chances are one member may already have such a vehicle.  A medium-sized van or SUV would do if fitted with a rooftop bike rack.  Cyclists take turns driving the vehicle (or perhaps a non-cycling spouse or friend might volunteer).  Each day, the vehicle is moved up to the overnight stop, staying behind the last rider if required.  Along Highway One, drivers could be changed every hour but intervals would have to be longer when cycling on bike paths where the vehicle could not follow.

The benefits: cyclists can ride unburdened by panniers.  And as they reach their destination motel, their luggage is already there.  Should a rider need help, he-she can call the motel office (or perhaps talk directly to the cell-phone equipped driver).   The vehicle is also available to give a lift to any cyclist over a particularly hilly or challenging section of the ride.  And at the end of the tour, it's available to take everyone back to the starting point (where, presumably, their individual cars are parked).

Can a cyclist make the same trip alone?  I did meet one man who cycled the same tour in daily sections of 25 miles. Each day he drove out from a motel base, cycled 25 miles of the route plus 25 miles back to his car, then drove back to the same motel for the night.  Actually he did much of the tour from Motel Sixes in San Simeon, Marina, Petaluma, Santa Rosa, Davis and South Lake Tahoe.  It took him 3 weeks altogether--but, then, he actually cycled the entire trip in both directions.

CYCLING SOLO--TENT CAMPING

If you want to ride solo from San Simeon to Davis, or without a support vehicle, contact the California State Parks Office by phoning 800-777-0369 or click on <www.parks.ca.gov> and ask them to send you a copy of the Official California State Parks Map (actually it costs $2) which shows all state parks with tent camping info; plus a copy of the brochure "Camping Reservation Guide" which lists all Calif state parks with campgrounds. I found them free at many motels.   I picked up my copies at the Ranger Station at Hearst Castle Visitor Center near San Simeon.  You can reserve a site up to 7 months in advance by phoning 800-777- 0369 or 916-653-6995 but many parks are on a first come/first served basis.

Lonely Planet's Guidebook "Cycling the USA West Coast" also gives helpful info on tent camping for at least part of this tour.  For return to San Simeon by train from Davis, see under Davis above.

WHEN TO  GO--THE  WEATHER

Between early April and the last weekday before Memorial Day, cycle NORTHBOUND from San Simeon to South Lake Tahoe.  Between the end of the Labor Day weekend and mid- October, cycle SOUTHBOUND from South Lake Tahoe to San Simeon. We do not recommend overnight touring on this route at any time between Memorial Day and Labor Day inclusive.

That's not just because of the weather but also because the route traverses a popular tourist area  with heavy summer car traffic and a constant demand for rooms, especially inexpensive Motel Six units.  June-through-August is hot almost everywhere inland and high, cool Lake Tahoe becomes a tourist zoo.  Meanwhile, between October 21 and early April, rain is common on the Pacific Coast and Lake Tahoe becomes a skiers' heaven.

During my tour in spring 2006, it rained only for an hour the entire way.  Highway One was cloudy in the mornings, sunny in the afternoons but with occasional drifting for in the mornings.  Even the San Francisco Bay Area was mild and sunny (though normally overcast).  Inland, the Russian River-to-Davis Wine Country was warm and sunny.  And Lake Tahoe was cool with morning temperatures around 38 degrees F and the mountains cloaked in lingering snow.  But afternoons were mild and sunny.

You should experience similar conditions in fall if you start from Lake Tahoe soon after Labor Day and cycle south to San Simeon.  During my tour I actually experienced ideal cycling conditions almost everywhere.

Regardless of season, I recommend phoning ahead to reserve accommodations, especially on Friday and Saturday nights.  Incidentally, Motel Sixes, and possibly other chains, give a 10% discount to AARP card holders and you can reserve a room at most Sixes without giving your credit card number (but your room will not be held past 6 p.m.).  The best Sixes are older two-story motels with at-door parking downstairs and individual air conditioning units.  California motels add a 10% tax.

MAPS  AND  GUIDE-BOOKS  FOR  CYCLING  CALIFORNIA

Items marked (essential) means you MUST have it to make this tour.

Adventure Cycling Association : Map, Pacific Coast Section 4, San Francisco to Santa Barbara (via Highway One). Order from website  <www.adventurecycling.org>.

Krebs Cycle Products, PO Box 82, Aptos CA, 95001.  Or order On-Line from <www.krebscycleproducts.com>.  About $10 each including postage.
Map: North San Francisco Bay and Wine Country (essential).
Map: South San Francisco Bay and Monterey Bay Areas.
Map: California North Coast.
Map: Lake Tahoe and Gold Country Bicycle Map.

Marin Bicycle Map (essential).  Order from Marin County Bicycle Coalition, <www.marinbike.org>.  In reponse to our request, they should now have a button on their website to facilitate purchase of this map--or email Bob Trigg at <bob@marinbike.org>.  Or phone 415-456-3469.  Price $12 by MC or Visa credit card.

Lonely Planet Guide: Cycling USA West Coast, first edition 2002 or later.  Covers Highway One, Monterey Peninsula, Golden Gate Bridge, Marin and Sonoma Counties, Point Reyes N.S., Wine Country and entire Pacific Coast Route.  Best ordered from <www.amazon.com>.

American Automobile Association: following road maps are free to members.  State Series: Nevada-Utah (Lake Tahoe map). State Series: California.  Regional Series: San Francisco Bay (San Francisco-Point Reyes-Occidental and Calistoga-Winters).  Regional Series: Sacramento Area.  City Series: San Francisco.  City Series: Napa Valley (Calistoga-Silverado Trail).  City Series: San Luis Obispo County. While not showing bike paths, they show many backroads used on this tour.

Monterey County Convention & Visitors Bureau, 150 Olivier St., Monterey CA 93940; 831- 657-6400 or 888-221-1010; or www.montereyinfo.org.  Ask for a copy of their 24" x 18" glossy color map "Monterey Peninsula" with Highway One map on back ( $1); and the TAMC Monterey County Bicycle Map, priced $5 (but the C & V Bureau gave me one free); also a smaller, free street map of Monterey.

Yolo County Visitors Bureau, 105 E Street, Suite 300, Davis CA; Phone 877-713-2487.  Ask for these maps: Davis and UC Davis Guide and Map.  Yolo County Visitors Bureau advises us that they will mail these maps to cyclists who would like the maps before arriving at Davis.

Transportation & Parking Services, UC Davis, Davis CA 95616 (530-752-BIKE).  Ask for the Davis Bike Map.

Solano Yolo Bike Links Map (Also available from <www.solanolinks.com).  Covers bike routes in Bay Area northeast of San Francisco and Davis-to-San Francisco bike-ferry route.

Other helpful maps and literature are described in the Day-by-Day Log above.